Embedded Files
After my last build that took a long time to complete, I decided to tackle something a “little less stressful”. I had been doing quite a bit of reading up on the V2 test program conducted post war in the USA at White Sands. I had a few variants in my stash so decided to build three at once.
After my last build that took a long time to complete, I decided to tackle something a “little less stressful”. I had been doing quite a bit of reading up on the V2 test program conducted post war in the USA at White Sands. I had a few variants in my stash so decided to build three at once.
Working left to right
Working left to right
1. Takom 1-35th kit with a Kora models WAC Corporal second stage, Built as Bumper 5 which at the time of its flight set a new altitude record of 248 miles
1. Takom 1-35th kit with a Kora models WAC Corporal second stage, Built as Bumper 5 which at the time of its flight set a new altitude record of 248 miles
2. Pegasus Models kit 1-48th scale, built as test flight No13, which is credited with taking the first picture of the earth from outer space
2. Pegasus Models kit 1-48th scale, built as test flight No13, which is credited with taking the first picture of the earth from outer space
3. Kora Models 1-72nd, Built as test flight No47 which was one of the Blossom series of rocket that had a lengthened body which was to accommodate a parachute recovery system for experiment retrieval.
3. Kora Models 1-72nd, Built as test flight No47 which was one of the Blossom series of rocket that had a lengthened body which was to accommodate a parachute recovery system for experiment retrieval.
I got hold of a copy of this book by Peter Alway as a guide to colour schemes, it’s a great resource
I got hold of a copy of this book by Peter Alway as a guide to colour schemes, it’s a great resource
First one on the bench was the Pegasus Models, the kit is designed as a snap together kit with no glue required. The mouldings are crisp and the fit is surprisingly good. It lacks a little detail and has a slightly “chunky” look to it.
First one on the bench was the Pegasus Models, the kit is designed as a snap together kit with no glue required. The mouldings are crisp and the fit is surprisingly good. It lacks a little detail and has a slightly “chunky” look to it.
Parts all cleaned up and ready for assembly, the main body has already been snapped together
Parts all cleaned up and ready for assembly, the main body has already been snapped together
The main section of the airframe required a bit of work at the seam line. I went with applying some sprue goo, and was then that I found that the plastic used in this kit may be ABS as it is nearly impervious to most types of glues and solvents, and the sprue goo just laid on the surface and peeled off
The main section of the airframe required a bit of work at the seam line. I went with applying some sprue goo, and was then that I found that the plastic used in this kit may be ABS as it is nearly impervious to most types of glues and solvents, and the sprue goo just laid on the surface and peeled off
A mixture of thin CA and Acrylic nail powder did the trick
A mixture of thin CA and Acrylic nail powder did the trick
A template was made up for use in re drilling the rivet holes
A template was made up for use in re drilling the rivet holes
There were far too many panel lines at the top, remedied with some perfect plastic putty
There were far too many panel lines at the top, remedied with some perfect plastic putty
Next up was the tail section, the two small seams received the same treatment of gap fill with CA and Acrylic mix, a rescribe followed by the drilling of the rivet detail
Next up was the tail section, the two small seams received the same treatment of gap fill with CA and Acrylic mix, a rescribe followed by the drilling of the rivet detail
And a few dabs of perfect plastic putty at the fin roots was all that was needed
And a few dabs of perfect plastic putty at the fin roots was all that was needed
It’s at this point where the engineer in me gets going and for no better reason than I can I start to tinker. Rather than just gluing the thing together a few mods are done and now the rocket is modular
It’s at this point where the engineer in me gets going and for no better reason than I can I start to tinker. Rather than just gluing the thing together a few mods are done and now the rocket is modular
To assemble it a couple of small screws, secure the joining section to the main airframe, and then the central screw in the tail section is screwed home into the tapped hole in the joining section
To assemble it a couple of small screws, secure the joining section to the main airframe, and then the central screw in the tail section is screwed home into the tapped hole in the joining section
The tinkering does have a few advantages inasmuch as it saves a bit of masking and makes the painting of the model a wee bit easier.
The tinkering does have a few advantages inasmuch as it saves a bit of masking and makes the painting of the model a wee bit easier.
The next job was to tackle the firing table, this being the support frame that the rocket was stood on when it was launched. The one supplied with the kit is a representation of a type that was used during the rockets development stage in Germany during the war, and not the table that was used to launch the V2’s across the English Channel, and also used at White Sands.
The next job was to tackle the firing table, this being the support frame that the rocket was stood on when it was launched. The one supplied with the kit is a representation of a type that was used during the rockets development stage in Germany during the war, and not the table that was used to launch the V2’s across the English Channel, and also used at White Sands.
The kit supplied table
The kit supplied table
A 3d render of the later table
A 3d render of the later table
So out came the saws and files and knives……………….
So out came the saws and files and knives……………….
Start made on the support legs
Start made on the support legs
Out came the trusty Dremel to mill the profile in the leg supports
Out came the trusty Dremel to mill the profile in the leg supports
Completed legs
Completed legs
Next the top deck pattern drawn out and attached to a sheet of styrene ready for cutting out
Next the top deck pattern drawn out and attached to a sheet of styrene ready for cutting out
Next up was the gearwheel, a pattern drawn and attached to a disc of styrene. Set up on the Dremel with a slit saw to cut the teeth
Next up was the gearwheel, a pattern drawn and attached to a disc of styrene. Set up on the Dremel with a slit saw to cut the teeth
The finished article in place on the table
The finished article in place on the table
A fit check with the tail section
A fit check with the tail section
Brass rod bent to shape in a jig for the final details
Brass rod bent to shape in a jig for the final details
Top deck details all completed and in place
Top deck details all completed and in place
And the final pieces were the gearboxes and cranking handles for the table levelling mechanisms added to the legs
And the final pieces were the gearboxes and cranking handles for the table levelling mechanisms added to the legs
I had up to this point in my return to modelling been using a H&S ultra with mainly Vallejo paints. I had been really struggling with that combination. I decided to change tack and bought an Iwata HP-CS and gave Tamiya Acrylics a bash. So far everything has been going really well. I’m chuffed as I was getting to the stage where I wasn’t looking forward to painting anything
I had up to this point in my return to modelling been using a H&S ultra with mainly Vallejo paints. I had been really struggling with that combination. I decided to change tack and bought an Iwata HP-CS and gave Tamiya Acrylics a bash. So far everything has been going really well. I’m chuffed as I was getting to the stage where I wasn’t looking forward to painting anything
The table with a coat of UMP primer,
The table with a coat of UMP primer,
The only other mod that has been done to the kit is the addition of some 3d printed ducts on the tail section. The real deal has 4 ducts at positions at the base between the fins and the kit only comes with one duct. Over the last couple of years, I have learnt how to draw up some basic bits and pieces in fusion 360, and send the files away for printing. As of yet not invested in a printer as I think it would become too much of a distraction for me and eat up the somewhat limited time, I have for making models.
The only other mod that has been done to the kit is the addition of some 3d printed ducts on the tail section. The real deal has 4 ducts at positions at the base between the fins and the kit only comes with one duct. Over the last couple of years, I have learnt how to draw up some basic bits and pieces in fusion 360, and send the files away for printing. As of yet not invested in a printer as I think it would become too much of a distraction for me and eat up the somewhat limited time, I have for making models.
Ducts as received, and the tailfin with ducts added
Ducts as received, and the tailfin with ducts added
The Pegasus was put to one side and a start was made on the Takom. The main section had a little mismatch so it glued some line up strips to hold it better in line during gluing, a bit of overkill in retrospect but it gave less seam work to do as I wanted to preserve as much of the rivet detail as possible
The Pegasus was put to one side and a start was made on the Takom. The main section had a little mismatch so it glued some line up strips to hold it better in line during gluing, a bit of overkill in retrospect but it gave less seam work to do as I wanted to preserve as much of the rivet detail as possible
Body glued and seams dealt with, I must say that there was a good join with minimal filler needed
Body glued and seams dealt with, I must say that there was a good join with minimal filler needed
The poison of choice lately for this kind of work has been this knifing putty from Holts, have found it is great stuff to work with, it sticks really really well, sands easily and is good to scribe
The poison of choice lately for this kind of work has been this knifing putty from Holts, have found it is great stuff to work with, it sticks really really well, sands easily and is good to scribe
Then on to the tail section, really nice detail on the fins. A good fit all round with only a minimum of filling required at the fin roots
Then on to the tail section, really nice detail on the fins. A good fit all round with only a minimum of filling required at the fin roots
Now came the time to chop off the top of the main airframe to accept the resin WAC Corporal second stage
Now came the time to chop off the top of the main airframe to accept the resin WAC Corporal second stage
Marking the cut line, 20mm removed
Marking the cut line, 20mm removed
The cut was made and the resin part trial fitted. It was then that I found that the model was 1mm or so out of round and the resin part was a little mis-shapen as well. I tried to match and shape the resin part to the kit, but made a right pig’s ear of it so I put it aside for a while.
The cut was made and the resin part trial fitted. It was then that I found that the model was 1mm or so out of round and the resin part was a little mis-shapen as well. I tried to match and shape the resin part to the kit, but made a right pig’s ear of it so I put it aside for a while.
The Kora resin kit as received, a lot of flash and pour plugs to be removed
The Kora resin kit as received, a lot of flash and pour plugs to be removed
Working on the main airframe section
Working on the main airframe section
The two halves were glued and when I started the seam works, they kept splitting and cracks would appear, so some drastic action was needed. The whole thing was filled with alternating layers of epoxy and foam sponge
The two halves were glued and when I started the seam works, they kept splitting and cracks would appear, so some drastic action was needed. The whole thing was filled with alternating layers of epoxy and foam sponge
A fair amount of filling, sanding, spot priming and repeating was needed to knock it into some sort of acceptable shape.
A fair amount of filling, sanding, spot priming and repeating was needed to knock it into some sort of acceptable shape.
Then onto the firing table, a fair amount of fettling needed
Then onto the firing table, a fair amount of fettling needed
With a coat of primer
With a coat of primer
Fins attached and most of the filling and rescribing done
Fins attached and most of the filling and rescribing done
Then time to hop back to the Takom, and another deviation into tinkerland. This time I decided to hold the thing together with magnets.
Then time to hop back to the Takom, and another deviation into tinkerland. This time I decided to hold the thing together with magnets.
The joining section had a couple of bulkheads installed with magnets epoxied onto place, and a bulkhead (to the right) was made for the main airframe
The joining section had a couple of bulkheads installed with magnets epoxied onto place, and a bulkhead (to the right) was made for the main airframe
A bulkhead for the tail section knocked up, the stand was for it to locate within the section and hold it square whilst it was glued
A bulkhead for the tail section knocked up, the stand was for it to locate within the section and hold it square whilst it was glued
Joining section all ready
Joining section all ready
Bulkhead in place in the tail section
Bulkhead in place in the tail section
On the “real” rocket there is a cover strip bolted into place to cover the join line of the two fuselage halves, one each side. It can be seen on the image here, and is just to the right of the model join line. For some reason Takom have only included one on the model.
On the “real” rocket there is a cover strip bolted into place to cover the join line of the two fuselage halves, one each side. It can be seen on the image here, and is just to the right of the model join line. For some reason Takom have only included one on the model.
To correct the omission a strip of thin styrene with some rivet holes was added to the opposite side. It would have been a nice touch if Takom had moulded the model with the split line at this area and then supplied a couple of covers separately to cover the seam.
To correct the omission a strip of thin styrene with some rivet holes was added to the opposite side. It would have been a nice touch if Takom had moulded the model with the split line at this area and then supplied a couple of covers separately to cover the seam.
After avoiding the issue with the Wac Corporal second stage I decided to have a bash at designing and having my own version printed.
After avoiding the issue with the Wac Corporal second stage I decided to have a bash at designing and having my own version printed.
I went for two variants, one that was circular, and one that started as an oval at the base and progressively getting to a round section at the top of the curved piece. This was done in an attempt to have it fit the model better. It took a fair amount of calculation with a trusty excel spreadsheet to get the progression from oval to round section.
I went for two variants, one that was circular, and one that started as an oval at the base and progressively getting to a round section at the top of the curved piece. This was done in an attempt to have it fit the model better. It took a fair amount of calculation with a trusty excel spreadsheet to get the progression from oval to round section.
A render of the two, the one to the right is the oval one
A render of the two, the one to the right is the oval one
The two were duly printed, and as expected the oval one was the best fit. Here the round one was cleaned up and primed to see if a decent finish could be achieved. You can see on the unfinished one has few bumps and ridges from the printing. These were removed with minimal sanding
The two were duly printed, and as expected the oval one was the best fit. Here the round one was cleaned up and primed to see if a decent finish could be achieved. You can see on the unfinished one has few bumps and ridges from the printing. These were removed with minimal sanding
If anyone has an interest in the STL file for this message me and I will send a copy to you.
If anyone has an interest in the STL file for this message me and I will send a copy to you.
The stage has then been attached with a screw whilst it was aligned, as I was fed up with it falling off all the time, it will also help to hold it where I want it whilst the glue is curing when it is finally fixed in place.
The stage has then been attached with a screw whilst it was aligned, as I was fed up with it falling off all the time, it will also help to hold it where I want it whilst the glue is curing when it is finally fixed in place.
Lined up and ready to glue, will just need a wee bit of filler to tidy up the seam
Lined up and ready to glue, will just need a wee bit of filler to tidy up the seam
I was looking at my references and realised that I had missed an important piece of detail from the Pegasus model. It is being built as Flight number 13, the one credited with having taken the first picture of the earth from space. Doh!!! it needs a camera which I had totally forgotten.
I was looking at my references and realised that I had missed an important piece of detail from the Pegasus model. It is being built as Flight number 13, the one credited with having taken the first picture of the earth from space. Doh!!! it needs a camera which I had totally forgotten.
A camera housing, with lens was built and attached to the model with a small piece of aluminium rod.
A camera housing, with lens was built and attached to the model with a small piece of aluminium rod.
Work started on making decals for the Takom as the ones I had needed some rework. I had some decal printing paper that was for Inkjet paper, and I can say conclusively it doesn’t work with a laser printer. Didn’t expect it to, but you never know, it printed ok but when dipped in water and applied some of the ink washed off. Maybe it could be sealed in with some liquid decal film, but as I now have a laser printer, I thought I might as well go with appropriate paper. Duly purchased a couple of sheets of white and the same of clear and carried out some tests.
Work started on making decals for the Takom as the ones I had needed some rework. I had some decal printing paper that was for Inkjet paper, and I can say conclusively it doesn’t work with a laser printer. Didn’t expect it to, but you never know, it printed ok but when dipped in water and applied some of the ink washed off. Maybe it could be sealed in with some liquid decal film, but as I now have a laser printer, I thought I might as well go with appropriate paper. Duly purchased a couple of sheets of white and the same of clear and carried out some tests.
I picked up a great tip from a real space modeller called Mike Makowski, you may know him as the guy who produces a series of guides to building spacecraft called the SIM (Space in Miniature) series.
I picked up a great tip from a real space modeller called Mike Makowski, you may know him as the guy who produces a series of guides to building spacecraft called the SIM (Space in Miniature) series.
The tip being that you just tape a piece of decal paper big enough for the decal to a sheet of plain paper and print away. Brilliant idea that saves so much decal paper.
The tip being that you just tape a piece of decal paper big enough for the decal to a sheet of plain paper and print away. Brilliant idea that saves so much decal paper.
The printer settings are "Tuned" get the best finish. In this case the paper type is set to High Glossy, and the document type to photograph
The printer settings are "Tuned" get the best finish. In this case the paper type is set to High Glossy, and the document type to photograph
There was a set of decals provided with the Kora Models WAC Corporal resin kit. I had previously scanned them with the intention of printing a set off onto plain paper and cutting them out to trial fit them. This was done and they were not the best of fits, the longer vertical stripes were 23mm too short, and the circumferential bands were pretty close, but needed the odd tweak.
There was a set of decals provided with the Kora Models WAC Corporal resin kit. I had previously scanned them with the intention of printing a set off onto plain paper and cutting them out to trial fit them. This was done and they were not the best of fits, the longer vertical stripes were 23mm too short, and the circumferential bands were pretty close, but needed the odd tweak.
This posed a bit of a dilemma as I am not really up to speed with using Inkscape, and currently don’t have a CAD program to draw some new ones up. Then I started playing about with Microsoft Paint 3d, I haven’t used paint in years, and certainly the first time I had used this version. Very pleasantly surprised at what you can do with it.
This posed a bit of a dilemma as I am not really up to speed with using Inkscape, and currently don’t have a CAD program to draw some new ones up. Then I started playing about with Microsoft Paint 3d, I haven’t used paint in years, and certainly the first time I had used this version. Very pleasantly surprised at what you can do with it.
Using something called magic Select it is possible to remove sections of the scan, and then resize, recolour, etc.
Using something called magic Select it is possible to remove sections of the scan, and then resize, recolour, etc.
Image below has the vertical strips lifted from the original and ready to resize
Image below has the vertical strips lifted from the original and ready to resize
Then I tried it with a photograph I had taken of another decal sheet, and it works just as well with photos as it does with scans. Brilliant bit of kit. Not saying it is the only, or best answer to making decals, but a good one to have in the toolbox
Then I tried it with a photograph I had taken of another decal sheet, and it works just as well with photos as it does with scans. Brilliant bit of kit. Not saying it is the only, or best answer to making decals, but a good one to have in the toolbox
As most of the Construction& prep work is now completed the next phase of the build will be covered on the next page
As most of the Construction& prep work is now completed the next phase of the build will be covered on the next page
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