Embedded Files
The Command Module build started with an initial line up and drilling holes for the threaded rod. The white plastic tube is for the Lunar Module lighting power cables to run through. The tube also doubles up as a locator to align the LM in the correct place relative to the CM, and to peg it in place. I will admit that this was not planned as such, but worked out well. The outside of the CM is finished in with a mirror like gold plated finish. In reality the CM was covered in strips of silver tape, so the depiction by Monogram was incorrect. Photographs taken soon after the CM had splashed down and was recovered show this tape had been "toasted" by the fiery re-entry through the atmosphere and had turned a golden brown colour. Urban myth has it that the kit designers used these photos and mistakenly coloured the kit gold. I do have one of the newest releases of the kit from 2009 and the CM is just grey plastic.
The Command Module build started with an initial line up and drilling holes for the threaded rod. The white plastic tube is for the Lunar Module lighting power cables to run through. The tube also doubles up as a locator to align the LM in the correct place relative to the CM, and to peg it in place. I will admit that this was not planned as such, but worked out well. The outside of the CM is finished in with a mirror like gold plated finish. In reality the CM was covered in strips of silver tape, so the depiction by Monogram was incorrect. Photographs taken soon after the CM had splashed down and was recovered show this tape had been "toasted" by the fiery re-entry through the atmosphere and had turned a golden brown colour. Urban myth has it that the kit designers used these photos and mistakenly coloured the kit gold. I do have one of the newest releases of the kit from 2009 and the CM is just grey plastic.
The section that is missing here is one of the clear plastic parts that can be left see through to show the interior
The section that is missing here is one of the clear plastic parts that can be left see through to show the interior
Interior parts prepared for priming
Interior parts prepared for priming
Interior of the aft heatshield. The two holes directly in the base are for the cables, the centre hole for the securing rod
Interior of the aft heatshield. The two holes directly in the base are for the cables, the centre hole for the securing rod
The seats under construction. The centre seat is unused due to the securing rod,and cable tunnel. In the real CM the centre seat was a removable item, that was unclipped and folded up during flight, this was to five a bit more room and allow access to the areas below for storage, and mainly for access the the navigation sextant, telescope and AGC computer
The seats under construction. The centre seat is unused due to the securing rod,and cable tunnel. In the real CM the centre seat was a removable item, that was unclipped and folded up during flight, this was to five a bit more room and allow access to the areas below for storage, and mainly for access the the navigation sextant, telescope and AGC computer
Trial fitting the seats
Trial fitting the seats
I thought that the wife and my son would like to go along for the ride
I thought that the wife and my son would like to go along for the ride
More trial fitting, now the cable tunnel for the LM wiring and the securing rod can be seen in place
More trial fitting, now the cable tunnel for the LM wiring and the securing rod can be seen in place
More trial fitting, getting the capsule outer shell to fit over the interior was not the easiest of jobs. It involved using small pieces of blutac placed inside the shell and on the interior placing the shell over and seeing where there was contact. Careful removal of material then allowed a nice snug fit
More trial fitting, getting the capsule outer shell to fit over the interior was not the easiest of jobs. It involved using small pieces of blutac placed inside the shell and on the interior placing the shell over and seeing where there was contact. Careful removal of material then allowed a nice snug fit
First trial of the interior light. I chose this type of backlight ledas it gives a nice diffuse, bluish tinge light
First trial of the interior light. I chose this type of backlight ledas it gives a nice diffuse, bluish tinge light
The light was installed into what is the control panel. A styrene hosung with holes was made and attached to the front of the models part
The light was installed into what is the control panel. A styrene hosung with holes was made and attached to the front of the models part
Here is a reference picture of the real CM. The windows are "Double Glazed". A distinctive red seal can be seen.
Here is a reference picture of the real CM. The windows are "Double Glazed". A distinctive red seal can be seen.
Armed with a set of interior images i made a set of window frames for the two square windows, and added a second pane of glass
Armed with a set of interior images i made a set of window frames for the two square windows, and added a second pane of glass
Frames, and "glass" made from thin acetate sheet.
Frames, and "glass" made from thin acetate sheet.
Frames being painted
Frames being painted
The inside of the outer shell. The see through section has been covered with black bare metal foil to prevent light leakage from the interior light
The inside of the outer shell. The see through section has been covered with black bare metal foil to prevent light leakage from the interior light
To add detail and a bit of depth to the model the thruster holes are drilled out and sheet plastic glued on the inside of the shell
To add detail and a bit of depth to the model the thruster holes are drilled out and sheet plastic glued on the inside of the shell
The roll thrusters apertures were also done in the same manner
The roll thrusters apertures were also done in the same manner
As only a very small area of the interior would be visible through the windows i went with scratch building just a few details. A panel and switches were made from styrene
As only a very small area of the interior would be visible through the windows i went with scratch building just a few details. A panel and switches were made from styrene
Another view of the interior. Vincent Meens sells a highly detailed interior that can be showcased of the clear section is left unpainted. New Ware also supply a nice photo etch set that gives a good representation of the panels and switches
Another view of the interior. Vincent Meens sells a highly detailed interior that can be showcased of the clear section is left unpainted. New Ware also supply a nice photo etch set that gives a good representation of the panels and switches
Dave Scott was the command module pilot, here he is seen sporting his beanie cap and Omega watch. This is a 3D print, purchased from the Shapeways shop of Max Grueter. He produces great representations of astronauts and Space Suits
Dave Scott was the command module pilot, here he is seen sporting his beanie cap and Omega watch. This is a 3D print, purchased from the Shapeways shop of Max Grueter. He produces great representations of astronauts and Space Suits
Another view of Dave. The NASA meatball & US flag are home made decals. Vincent Meens provides the artwork on his website. This is then printed onto decal paper. When these were made I was using an inkjet printer so the decals need a coat of clear lacquer to seal them before they can be put in water to apply them. Acrylic lacquer can be bought in spray cans. If you are using a laser printer then sealing is not needed
Another view of Dave. The NASA meatball & US flag are home made decals. Vincent Meens provides the artwork on his website. This is then printed onto decal paper. When these were made I was using an inkjet printer so the decals need a coat of clear lacquer to seal them before they can be put in water to apply them. Acrylic lacquer can be bought in spray cans. If you are using a laser printer then sealing is not needed
Dave happily floating around inside the module
Dave happily floating around inside the module
The clear section is trial fitted. The fit is absolutely atrocious and took a lot of work to get anywhere near. I also tried out placing strips of foil to see how it would look, more of that later
The clear section is trial fitted. The fit is absolutely atrocious and took a lot of work to get anywhere near. I also tried out placing strips of foil to see how it would look, more of that later
lights powered up for a "light leak test"
lights powered up for a "light leak test"
A view through the right hand window
A view through the right hand window
Dave seen housed in the module with the light on
Dave seen housed in the module with the light on
A view of the control panel and opposite window
A view of the control panel and opposite window
The phtoetch door hatch, and resin window frame attached
The phtoetch door hatch, and resin window frame attached
An existing jig was modified to hold the CM whilst applying the foil strips
An existing jig was modified to hold the CM whilst applying the foil strips
The jig ready to go
The jig ready to go
The command module bolted into place
The command module bolted into place
A final clean up of the surface completed
A final clean up of the surface completed
Set up and ready to go
Set up and ready to go
The drawing in the background was one that i made using AutoCad mobile. It was made by consulting tons of flight photographs
The drawing in the background was one that i made using AutoCad mobile. It was made by consulting tons of flight photographs
A cutting guide was printed to ensure that the strips were the correct width
A cutting guide was printed to ensure that the strips were the correct width
Starting to apply the Bare Metal foil
Starting to apply the Bare Metal foil
This is what happens when you cut a strip and remove it from the backing. There was no way i was going to deal with this, a tool was needed
This is what happens when you cut a strip and remove it from the backing. There was no way i was going to deal with this, a tool was needed
This was what i came up with, a small piece of styrene cut into a "C" shape
This was what i came up with, a small piece of styrene cut into a "C" shape
first the strip is cut and the two ends lifted from the backing
first the strip is cut and the two ends lifted from the backing
The tool is placed under the ends, they are pressed onto the tool and the strip is lifted away
The tool is placed under the ends, they are pressed onto the tool and the strip is lifted away
the strip is held nice and straight ready for application onto the model. I made about four of the tools off different lengths
the strip is held nice and straight ready for application onto the model. I made about four of the tools off different lengths
This was the progress at the end of the first session. For some reason i had kept putting off doing the job, but once i got into the groove i really enjoyed it
This was the progress at the end of the first session. For some reason i had kept putting off doing the job, but once i got into the groove i really enjoyed it
Session 2 underway, and the first direction chage means that the joints have a "Herringbone" pattern. This for me was a bit of a head melt until i marked up the sequence of applying the strips onto the roadmap
Session 2 underway, and the first direction chage means that the joints have a "Herringbone" pattern. This for me was a bit of a head melt until i marked up the sequence of applying the strips onto the roadmap
The end of session 2
The end of session 2
Sometimes it doesn't matter how prepared you think you are as there is always something that will bring you back down to earth with a bump . This was one such time. On most of the CM's the small thruster apertures above the hatch are seen as red circles. It was only when i was double checking a tape position that i noticed that Apollo 9 has a rectangular area of the red colour around the apertures. Something that i think is peculiar to just this CM. Here the area is masked a being painted
Sometimes it doesn't matter how prepared you think you are as there is always something that will bring you back down to earth with a bump . This was one such time. On most of the CM's the small thruster apertures above the hatch are seen as red circles. It was only when i was double checking a tape position that i noticed that Apollo 9 has a rectangular area of the red colour around the apertures. Something that i think is peculiar to just this CM. Here the area is masked a being painted
Whipping along at a fair pace now
Whipping along at a fair pace now
I did find that getting going at the start of a session was difficult
I did find that getting going at the start of a session was difficult
I cant explain why but the tape laid down differently and reacted in a different manner when laid on the clear plastic section as to the gold areas
I cant explain why but the tape laid down differently and reacted in a different manner when laid on the clear plastic section as to the gold areas
Here you can see some darker strips added. Bare metal foil comes in different finishes. The darker foil was ultra Chrome, the shinier stuff is new improved chrome. After the main strips were applied the tape was removed from the rectangular access panels in readiness for them to be coated with "vertical strips"
Here you can see some darker strips added. Bare metal foil comes in different finishes. The darker foil was ultra Chrome, the shinier stuff is new improved chrome. After the main strips were applied the tape was removed from the rectangular access panels in readiness for them to be coated with "vertical strips"
Starting to work around the hatch frame. The foil although extremely thin and delicate can be worked a stretched into place with a cotton bud, and small pieces of shaped toothpicks. It conforms to the surface below and shows up the underlying detail with amazing clarity. Unfortunately that includes any scratches and pieces of fluff..........................
Starting to work around the hatch frame. The foil although extremely thin and delicate can be worked a stretched into place with a cotton bud, and small pieces of shaped toothpicks. It conforms to the surface below and shows up the underlying detail with amazing clarity. Unfortunately that includes any scratches and pieces of fluff..........................
An image of the real thing in flight
An image of the real thing in flight
The hatch area completed
The hatch area completed
The small rectangular access panels had the vertical strips applied
The small rectangular access panels had the vertical strips applied
A template was cut for the top section
A template was cut for the top section
This was then cut and the sequence of application marked on it as a guide
This was then cut and the sequence of application marked on it as a guide
The docking collar and EVA ring were trial fitted
The docking collar and EVA ring were trial fitted
Taping the top section underway
Taping the top section underway
Another view
Another view
Nearly completed
Nearly completed
Just one small section remained. I would estimate i spent about thirty hours in total applying the tape
Just one small section remained. I would estimate i spent about thirty hours in total applying the tape
Finally all done and dusted
Finally all done and dusted
Homemade decals cut for the Antena locators
Homemade decals cut for the Antena locators
The joint line of the two heat shields was depicted with the application of a strip of vinyl tape. It was on a roll that was originally 10mm wide. it was laid out on a glass cutting board and a 0.3 mm wide strip was cut off. Placing it on the glass means that the adhesive stayed on the strip when it was being cut
The joint line of the two heat shields was depicted with the application of a strip of vinyl tape. It was on a roll that was originally 10mm wide. it was laid out on a glass cutting board and a 0.3 mm wide strip was cut off. Placing it on the glass means that the adhesive stayed on the strip when it was being cut
Antenna locator decal in place
Antenna locator decal in place
EVA handles, Umbilical housing and vents prepped for painting
EVA handles, Umbilical housing and vents prepped for painting
Thruster nozzles aperture details cut from the sheet and waiting to be painted
Thruster nozzles aperture details cut from the sheet and waiting to be painted
The small red circles were applied using a tool. They were slid onto the end of a toothpick that had a slide sleeve on it. A dab of glue was applied, and the ring placed on the toothpick, which was then inserted onto the hole in the CM. now that everything was lined up the sleeve was then slid down, this pressed the ring against the model whilst the glue dried, and ensured a perfect line up
The small red circles were applied using a tool. They were slid onto the end of a toothpick that had a slide sleeve on it. A dab of glue was applied, and the ring placed on the toothpick, which was then inserted onto the hole in the CM. now that everything was lined up the sleeve was then slid down, this pressed the ring against the model whilst the glue dried, and ensured a perfect line up
all the apertures fitted
all the apertures fitted
The docking collar (the inner of the two rings at the top) was glued into place. This was an original part from the kit
The docking collar (the inner of the two rings at the top) was glued into place. This was an original part from the kit
Prior to gluing the Docking collar the position of the EVA handle was marked on the surface by using a template that Vincent Meens provides on his website. This ensures two things, the correct orientation when the item comes to be glued, and something firm for the glue to attach to as the tapes is cut away to reveal the plastic underneath
Prior to gluing the Docking collar the position of the EVA handle was marked on the surface by using a template that Vincent Meens provides on his website. This ensures two things, the correct orientation when the item comes to be glued, and something firm for the glue to attach to as the tapes is cut away to reveal the plastic underneath
Next up it was time for decals, Using Rick Sternbachs set of Ultimate decals, and his roadmap for the placement. A good look at fligh, and post landing photos confirmed the placement and type.
Next up it was time for decals, Using Rick Sternbachs set of Ultimate decals, and his roadmap for the placement. A good look at fligh, and post landing photos confirmed the placement and type.
There was one additional decal applied. This was what i have dubbed the "Mystery Arrow" I first spotted it on the photo on the left and asked around in a few FB groups if anyone knew about it. The photo on the right was posted by someone in reply showing it on the surface when a training exercise was being conducted. No one has any concrete evidence of why it was there, so it will remain in my eyes a mystery. One positive thing to note is that i engaged in a dialogue with Rick about it and he is considering adding it to future runs of his decals
There was one additional decal applied. This was what i have dubbed the "Mystery Arrow" I first spotted it on the photo on the left and asked around in a few FB groups if anyone knew about it. The photo on the right was posted by someone in reply showing it on the surface when a training exercise was being conducted. No one has any concrete evidence of why it was there, so it will remain in my eyes a mystery. One positive thing to note is that i engaged in a dialogue with Rick about it and he is considering adding it to future runs of his decals
applying the mystery arrow. The arrow was created in excel, then imported into Inkscape for sizing and finally printed onto decal sheet using a laser printer. Here is where I used a trick that i picked up from Mike Makowski. print the decals first onto a plan piece of paper. Then cut out a section of decal paper just big enough for the decals required and tape this onto the paper you had just printed. Set the printer up to print at high resolution onto photo paper. Plce this in the tray and print away. Saves using a whole sheet to print a couple of timy decals
applying the mystery arrow. The arrow was created in excel, then imported into Inkscape for sizing and finally printed onto decal sheet using a laser printer. Here is where I used a trick that i picked up from Mike Makowski. print the decals first onto a plan piece of paper. Then cut out a section of decal paper just big enough for the decals required and tape this onto the paper you had just printed. Set the printer up to print at high resolution onto photo paper. Plce this in the tray and print away. Saves using a whole sheet to print a couple of timy decals
Decals applied to the hatch
Decals applied to the hatch
Yoy can see here that small pieces of "Randomly" sized pieces of tape have been applied around windows and access hatches. This is to replicate the real thing.
Yoy can see here that small pieces of "Randomly" sized pieces of tape have been applied around windows and access hatches. This is to replicate the real thing.
More decal applied
More decal applied
The second strip of red tape applied around the base
The second strip of red tape applied around the base
A shot from the rear
A shot from the rear
Painting the small detail parts. These were left off at this stage and will be applied last thing, these parts were all 3d printed items from Vincent Meens
Painting the small detail parts. These were left off at this stage and will be applied last thing, these parts were all 3d printed items from Vincent Meens
the completed CM ready to go. The small EVA ring was just placed here for the photo
the completed CM ready to go. The small EVA ring was just placed here for the photo
A shot from above
A shot from above
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