Embedded Files
As I was gathering all the pieces together to decide on priming colours, I found a couple of jobs that needed doing.
As I was gathering all the pieces together to decide on priming colours, I found a couple of jobs that needed doing.
One job being the pusher mechanism that had been straightened before had now become warped again. I tried to realign it and managed to snap one of the struts off. So nothing for it but to build a new one
One job being the pusher mechanism that had been straightened before had now become warped again. I tried to realign it and managed to snap one of the struts off. So nothing for it but to build a new one
The finished item was then trial fitted in the stage and measured to ensure that it didn’t clash with the engine
The finished item was then trial fitted in the stage and measured to ensure that it didn’t clash with the engine
The second job was to install a small strip around the bottom of the trunk fairing
The second job was to install a small strip around the bottom of the trunk fairing
Strip installed, & a first coat of primer applied
Strip installed, & a first coat of primer applied
As expected, the prime coat showed up all kinds of nasties, a bit of elbow grease some wet and dry and the odd dab of filler were pressed into action.
As expected, the prime coat showed up all kinds of nasties, a bit of elbow grease some wet and dry and the odd dab of filler were pressed into action.
I decided to spray the inside of the interstage with a Zinc Chromate colour, partly due to the fact I wanted to try out some SMS paints. So far, I am really impressed, straight out of the bottle and spray very well. Minimal fuss to clean up the airbrush after use as well.
I decided to spray the inside of the interstage with a Zinc Chromate colour, partly due to the fact I wanted to try out some SMS paints. So far, I am really impressed, straight out of the bottle and spray very well. Minimal fuss to clean up the airbrush after use as well.
The interstage painted on the inside
The interstage painted on the inside
Another toy I invested in recently is a Vortex mixer, I got it from Ali Express at half the price they are sold on Amazon. There is a definite knack to using it, and combined with a small stainless ball bearing in the bottle the results are very good. I would say though that I didn’t put a ball in the glass bottle that the SMS paints come in.
Another toy I invested in recently is a Vortex mixer, I got it from Ali Express at half the price they are sold on Amazon. There is a definite knack to using it, and combined with a small stainless ball bearing in the bottle the results are very good. I would say though that I didn’t put a ball in the glass bottle that the SMS paints come in.
The second stage stacked
The second stage stacked
Landing legs and fairings finish primed, engine bells painted and the pusher assembly sits on the fuel tank bulkhead
Landing legs and fairings finish primed, engine bells painted and the pusher assembly sits on the fuel tank bulkhead
The second Stage engine, engine bell and bulkhead painted up and dry fitted, the insulation placed loosely in place to see how it would all look.
The second Stage engine, engine bell and bulkhead painted up and dry fitted, the insulation placed loosely in place to see how it would all look.
The assembly was then placed into the second stage
The assembly was then placed into the second stage
Seeing it like that made me further think a little about how I will finally display the model. Overall, the model including the stand stacks up to just over a metre tall. I had already thought about having a hole cut in a Perspex shelf in the display cabinet to accommodate it. The new idea will be to display the second stage separate from the first. As I wouldn’t want to just stand the whole of the second stage on the engine bell, I thought a nice stand would be in order. Fusion 360 was pressed into action and a stand was drawn up and is being printed.
Seeing it like that made me further think a little about how I will finally display the model. Overall, the model including the stand stacks up to just over a metre tall. I had already thought about having a hole cut in a Perspex shelf in the display cabinet to accommodate it. The new idea will be to display the second stage separate from the first. As I wouldn’t want to just stand the whole of the second stage on the engine bell, I thought a nice stand would be in order. Fusion 360 was pressed into action and a stand was drawn up and is being printed.
Next job was to get the sizes and a drawing done for the access hatches at the base of the first stage
Next job was to get the sizes and a drawing done for the access hatches at the base of the first stage
They are seen on these two images
They are seen on these two images
A sketch was made by tracing the profile of the kit landing leg to give some dimensions
A sketch was made by tracing the profile of the kit landing leg to give some dimensions
The profile was then drawn in fusion 360, and the hatch was drawn up.
The profile was then drawn in fusion 360, and the hatch was drawn up.
I am using the “free” version of Fusion, and at the beginning of the year some of the functions in the free version were removed and are only accessible by having a paid subscription.
I am using the “free” version of Fusion, and at the beginning of the year some of the functions in the free version were removed and are only accessible by having a paid subscription.
One of these functions was being able to save a drawing as an SVG file type. With this now gone from the free version a bit of faffing about is required.
One of these functions was being able to save a drawing as an SVG file type. With this now gone from the free version a bit of faffing about is required.
The hatch was given a nominal thickness of 0.2mm, and the profile resulted in this image. Then a “Snip” was created using Microsoft snipping tool, this is saved as a JPEG file
The hatch was given a nominal thickness of 0.2mm, and the profile resulted in this image. Then a “Snip” was created using Microsoft snipping tool, this is saved as a JPEG file
The Jpeg is then converted to an SVG file using a free online converter.
The Jpeg is then converted to an SVG file using a free online converter.
This result in an SVG file that can then be imported into Inkscape, and appears as just an outline
This result in an SVG file that can then be imported into Inkscape, and appears as just an outline
The imported image can then be tweaked by adjusting the height and width
The imported image can then be tweaked by adjusting the height and width
The image is printed off and checked against the landing leg
The image is printed off and checked against the landing leg
All looks good with that and six are required so the file in Inkscape now looks like this.
All looks good with that and six are required so the file in Inkscape now looks like this.
The file is now ready for use with a Silhouette Cameo which I intend to invest in. They will be cut from thin sheet styrene
The file is now ready for use with a Silhouette Cameo which I intend to invest in. They will be cut from thin sheet styrene
September 17th 2021
September 17th 2021
Another long break away from the bench due to work commitments, nearly three months this time.
Another long break away from the bench due to work commitments, nearly three months this time.
It did give me a chance to save up and buy the Cameo 4 though. So after a bit of faffing about and getting to learn the ropes I loaded up the drawing of the hatches and hit the button
It did give me a chance to save up and buy the Cameo 4 though. So after a bit of faffing about and getting to learn the ropes I loaded up the drawing of the hatches and hit the button
Very impressed, they came out a treat
Very impressed, they came out a treat
Whilst I was away the stand for the second stage came from the printers
Whilst I was away the stand for the second stage came from the printers
The Insulation was glued into place and the engine attached to the bulkhead
The Insulation was glued into place and the engine attached to the bulkhead
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And then a trial fit onto the stand
And then a trial fit onto the stand
Due to the nature of my job I have been spending a fair amount of time “locked” up in hotel rooms in quarantine, so whilst I was kicking my heels I have been beefing up my fusion 360 knowledge, and decided to sketch up a design for the display base.
Due to the nature of my job I have been spending a fair amount of time “locked” up in hotel rooms in quarantine, so whilst I was kicking my heels I have been beefing up my fusion 360 knowledge, and decided to sketch up a design for the display base.
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Time to put ideas into reality. Instead of a thick base I plumped for a sheet of 2mm thick styrene, this meant I could drill and tap into it to secure the support frames. The support frame for the first stage came with the kit, and is now held in place with some small cap screws
Time to put ideas into reality. Instead of a thick base I plumped for a sheet of 2mm thick styrene, this meant I could drill and tap into it to secure the support frames. The support frame for the first stage came with the kit, and is now held in place with some small cap screws
Then the second stage frame was attached to the base in the same manner
Then the second stage frame was attached to the base in the same manner
Finally, a support for the mission patch was put in place, and some stiffening packers glued under the base set back from the edges so it gives the base a “floating” effect
Finally, a support for the mission patch was put in place, and some stiffening packers glued under the base set back from the edges so it gives the base a “floating” effect
Then the whole shooting match was set up
Then the whole shooting match was set up
I had a look at a few you tube tutorials on the Cameo, grabbed some Oramask 813 online and had a bash at creating some spray masks. Absolutely blown away with the quality of the end result, the machine is an impressive bit of kit. The trick is to scan the decals at a high resolution and manually trace the image in the software. The small masks at the bottom of the image are only 3mm high, this was a first attempt, and guessed settings and the outcome can be improved. But all in all, not too shabby for a first go
I had a look at a few you tube tutorials on the Cameo, grabbed some Oramask 813 online and had a bash at creating some spray masks. Absolutely blown away with the quality of the end result, the machine is an impressive bit of kit. The trick is to scan the decals at a high resolution and manually trace the image in the software. The small masks at the bottom of the image are only 3mm high, this was a first attempt, and guessed settings and the outcome can be improved. But all in all, not too shabby for a first go
I was not happy with the join line of the nose fairing, so over a few days the ragged areas were slowly built up with Mr Surfacer 1300 applied with a brush and sanded down
I was not happy with the join line of the nose fairing, so over a few days the ragged areas were slowly built up with Mr Surfacer 1300 applied with a brush and sanded down
That was the start of a torrid few days, where if it could go wrong, it did
That was the start of a torrid few days, where if it could go wrong, it did
Last time I used my airbrush was about three months ago, I had done what I thought was a thorough clean up job, so silly me just grabbed it and slung some UMP white primer in the cup, pulled the trigger…………and a stuck needle. Finally got the brush cleaned up and started painting, then it spluttered, and then tip dried, then there were lumps everywhere. After a root around on a few facebook pages the consensus of opinion appeared to be that it needs straining before use. Some paint strainers duly obtained and this seems to have helped the situation.
Last time I used my airbrush was about three months ago, I had done what I thought was a thorough clean up job, so silly me just grabbed it and slung some UMP white primer in the cup, pulled the trigger…………and a stuck needle. Finally got the brush cleaned up and started painting, then it spluttered, and then tip dried, then there were lumps everywhere. After a root around on a few facebook pages the consensus of opinion appeared to be that it needs straining before use. Some paint strainers duly obtained and this seems to have helped the situation.
The only downside with the polyurethane type primers is that if you don’t get them cleaned out of the brush straight away, they are an absolute nightmare to clean up later down the line. What I have found with the UMP ones is when you are ready to clean up the first thing to do is to flush, backflush and flush again using only distilled water for a start, and only when you think the brush is clean then use a sparing amount of airbrush cleaner or Isopropanol.
The only downside with the polyurethane type primers is that if you don’t get them cleaned out of the brush straight away, they are an absolute nightmare to clean up later down the line. What I have found with the UMP ones is when you are ready to clean up the first thing to do is to flush, backflush and flush again using only distilled water for a start, and only when you think the brush is clean then use a sparing amount of airbrush cleaner or Isopropanol.
I use an Ultimate Apex brush for these primers, but as I was having problems, I decided to try using the Eclipse to see if it was the airbrush that was the root cause. This then led to another bout of problems as again after I thought I had cleaned the brush thoroughly of the UMP I tried spraying some lacquer-based SMS paints. This highlights another problem area; UMP primer turns to a stringy gooey mess when exposed to lacquer-based paints/thinners. Needless to say, another frustrating session of failures and tedious cleaning ensued.
I use an Ultimate Apex brush for these primers, but as I was having problems, I decided to try using the Eclipse to see if it was the airbrush that was the root cause. This then led to another bout of problems as again after I thought I had cleaned the brush thoroughly of the UMP I tried spraying some lacquer-based SMS paints. This highlights another problem area; UMP primer turns to a stringy gooey mess when exposed to lacquer-based paints/thinners. Needless to say, another frustrating session of failures and tedious cleaning ensued.
So, I thought enough of this I need to do something constructive. Now that I had the access hatches made for the base of the first stage my attention was directed at placing them, and the landing legs. I had already toyed with the idea of pre-painting and attaching the legs after the stage was painted-this was plan was adopted. The positions were marked and the legs were held in place and holed drilled through and into the tube. 2mm dia styrene dowels were then glued into place with epoxy. They sit there nicely, and will not need gluing at final assembly
So, I thought enough of this I need to do something constructive. Now that I had the access hatches made for the base of the first stage my attention was directed at placing them, and the landing legs. I had already toyed with the idea of pre-painting and attaching the legs after the stage was painted-this was plan was adopted. The positions were marked and the legs were held in place and holed drilled through and into the tube. 2mm dia styrene dowels were then glued into place with epoxy. They sit there nicely, and will not need gluing at final assembly
The dowel holes were drilled through at a place where there was a small access hatch, so this was ideal as a punched-out disc of styrene was glued in place to cover the hole. During the preparation and sanding there was another hatch cover that was lost on each leg, these were reinstated with styrene discs as well. A reference image included to the right
The dowel holes were drilled through at a place where there was a small access hatch, so this was ideal as a punched-out disc of styrene was glued in place to cover the hole. During the preparation and sanding there was another hatch cover that was lost on each leg, these were reinstated with styrene discs as well. A reference image included to the right
Next it was time to go back and try and get some things painted. First up was the second stage display frame. This is a PLA print, and for the want of a better description the finish was about as good as a ploughed field. I was musing about how to deal with it, and then dimly remembered buying a tin of automotive spray putty a long while back (probably at the time thinking well this may come in handy for something). Bingo, result, two coats later and most of the craters are filled. I will treat it to another coat tomorrow, then prime it.
Next it was time to go back and try and get some things painted. First up was the second stage display frame. This is a PLA print, and for the want of a better description the finish was about as good as a ploughed field. I was musing about how to deal with it, and then dimly remembered buying a tin of automotive spray putty a long while back (probably at the time thinking well this may come in handy for something). Bingo, result, two coats later and most of the craters are filled. I will treat it to another coat tomorrow, then prime it.
As the display base is a reasonably large area, I decided to go down the rattle can route. I have heard a lot of good reports about Halfords primer so decided to give it a shot. It went on really nicely with a good finish. Whilst I was at the shop, I grabbed myself a tin of the Satin Black, and also a white that is called “Polar White”.
As the display base is a reasonably large area, I decided to go down the rattle can route. I have heard a lot of good reports about Halfords primer so decided to give it a shot. It went on really nicely with a good finish. Whilst I was at the shop, I grabbed myself a tin of the Satin Black, and also a white that is called “Polar White”.
The landing legs were treated to another coat of UMP primer, no dramas this time round. The support for the first stage was primed with UMP black, this sprays like a dream.
The landing legs were treated to another coat of UMP primer, no dramas this time round. The support for the first stage was primed with UMP black, this sprays like a dream.
Lastly the image to the right is of a few test pieces of UPVC tube of the same type as the first stage. As I have never painted, decaled or finished this type of material before, and it will be my first foray into spraying details using Oramask I thought some testing would be prudent. They are being painted up with sections of different combinations of primer and topcoats.
Lastly the image to the right is of a few test pieces of UPVC tube of the same type as the first stage. As I have never painted, decaled or finished this type of material before, and it will be my first foray into spraying details using Oramask I thought some testing would be prudent. They are being painted up with sections of different combinations of primer and topcoats.
As well as Oramask I have been advised to try using Artool Ultramask, of which I have some to hand, and will further make some masks cut from Tamiya masking sheet
As well as Oramask I have been advised to try using Artool Ultramask, of which I have some to hand, and will further make some masks cut from Tamiya masking sheet
Then the last job of the day was to glue the large cable duct into place
Then the last job of the day was to glue the large cable duct into place
The display based was primed with Halfords primer, and top coated with their Satin Black. Really easy to use with impressive results. The first stage support was primed, and then top coated with Vallejo Dull Aluminium
The display based was primed with Halfords primer, and top coated with their Satin Black. Really easy to use with impressive results. The first stage support was primed, and then top coated with Vallejo Dull Aluminium
In the absence of any references, I had previously painted the interior of the interstage with a zinc chromate colour.
In the absence of any references, I had previously painted the interior of the interstage with a zinc chromate colour.
Well, that idea was shown to be totally wrong when I happened upon a video on you tube that give a rare glimpse into the inside of the interstage. On a Starlink launch mission early in 2020 the booster “missed” its landing on the barge and ended up in the Ocean. It was towed back to port and some still shots and videos were taken.
Well, that idea was shown to be totally wrong when I happened upon a video on you tube that give a rare glimpse into the inside of the interstage. On a Starlink launch mission early in 2020 the booster “missed” its landing on the barge and ended up in the Ocean. It was towed back to port and some still shots and videos were taken.
Well, that has opened a can of worms as I now can’t unsee what’s in there……………….
Well, that has opened a can of worms as I now can’t unsee what’s in there……………….
Firstly, the interior has been repainted white and some scratching has started.
Firstly, the interior has been repainted white and some scratching has started.
Here are a couple of images with markups of some of the interior items
Here are a couple of images with markups of some of the interior items
An Engine bell skirt support was made by cutting a disc of styrene, then adding an upstand. The position of the supports marked out and 1mm support rods added. The bulkhead was drilled to accept the
An Engine bell skirt support was made by cutting a disc of styrene, then adding an upstand. The position of the supports marked out and 1mm support rods added. The bulkhead was drilled to accept the
As I didn’t want to commit to gluing the pusher into place yet out came the drills and taps and the centre rod tapped out 3mm.
As I didn’t want to commit to gluing the pusher into place yet out came the drills and taps and the centre rod tapped out 3mm.
Now it’s time for a rummage in the leftovers box to see what we can find to make some eye candy out of.
Now it’s time for a rummage in the leftovers box to see what we can find to make some eye candy out of.
The rummaging turned up these bits and bobs
The rummaging turned up these bits and bobs
A design for a baseplate to hold the gridfin actuators was drawn up in fusion 360, then imported into the Cameo software and cut from 0.020 styrene
A design for a baseplate to hold the gridfin actuators was drawn up in fusion 360, then imported into the Cameo software and cut from 0.020 styrene
The base cut out and trial fitted
The base cut out and trial fitted
Then the assembly was built up with odds and ends
Then the assembly was built up with odds and ends
None of the assemblies are glued as it has to be assembled after the bare bulkhead is inserted into the interstage. The finished assembly will then be glued into the interstage and the gridfins inserted.
None of the assemblies are glued as it has to be assembled after the bare bulkhead is inserted into the interstage. The finished assembly will then be glued into the interstage and the gridfins inserted.
Finally, the items were all painted up
Finally, the items were all painted up
The display base was finished off and is ready to go
The display base was finished off and is ready to go
Then it was time to do some testing with mask cutting and spraying. Never having created and used masks I decided to do a fair bit of testing to find my feet with it.
Then it was time to do some testing with mask cutting and spraying. Never having created and used masks I decided to do a fair bit of testing to find my feet with it.
I am pleased I did as I learnt a few valuable lessons, and picked up some helpful tips from a mask cutting group on Facebook. I tried using Oramask 813 and Artool Ultramask. They both perform extremely well, but I prefer the Ultramask. It is thinner, and the adhesive is a lot less aggressive, but although not as “Sticky” I had no bleed through under the mask. The Oramask would not be for the fain hearted as it would peel off paint that is not very well adhered to the model, I am sure it probably could be detacked prior to use, but all in all I wouldn’t want to go through doing that when I could use another product that I was comfortable with and not have to do that. Another tip was that of using a transfer tape. The transfer tape is placed over the top of the mask and holds everything in place (for example the centre portions of letters). The mask is removed from its backing and turned over, the unwanted sections are removed, then the mask applied to the work piece. The transfer tape is removed and spraying can commence. A bit of thought is needed if there are multiple colours and more than one mask is required as the colours are applied. I did make two stage masks and used them, I also cut a single mask and applied making tape over the mask. Both methods worked for my simple designs. I am highly impressed with the finished articles
I am pleased I did as I learnt a few valuable lessons, and picked up some helpful tips from a mask cutting group on Facebook. I tried using Oramask 813 and Artool Ultramask. They both perform extremely well, but I prefer the Ultramask. It is thinner, and the adhesive is a lot less aggressive, but although not as “Sticky” I had no bleed through under the mask. The Oramask would not be for the fain hearted as it would peel off paint that is not very well adhered to the model, I am sure it probably could be detacked prior to use, but all in all I wouldn’t want to go through doing that when I could use another product that I was comfortable with and not have to do that. Another tip was that of using a transfer tape. The transfer tape is placed over the top of the mask and holds everything in place (for example the centre portions of letters). The mask is removed from its backing and turned over, the unwanted sections are removed, then the mask applied to the work piece. The transfer tape is removed and spraying can commence. A bit of thought is needed if there are multiple colours and more than one mask is required as the colours are applied. I did make two stage masks and used them, I also cut a single mask and applied making tape over the mask. Both methods worked for my simple designs. I am highly impressed with the finished articles
In this method the first mask was applied and the blue painted, to the right is the second mask for the grey portion of the x
In this method the first mask was applied and the blue painted, to the right is the second mask for the grey portion of the x
Then when the blue was dried off the mask removed and the second mask placed
Then when the blue was dried off the mask removed and the second mask placed
In this case a single mask was used, and the blue area was painted first with the area to be painted grey masked off, and then visa versa.
In this case a single mask was used, and the blue area was painted first with the area to be painted grey masked off, and then visa versa.
Then the end results
Then the end results
Then another design was tested out, I went for double masks and single masks. I found that the single masks will suffice, it’s a bit quicker and less work inasmuch as you are not having to accurately place the second mask. Its just a case of apply one mask, paint one colour, mask over that, then paint the second colour, all done.
Then another design was tested out, I went for double masks and single masks. I found that the single masks will suffice, it’s a bit quicker and less work inasmuch as you are not having to accurately place the second mask. Its just a case of apply one mask, paint one colour, mask over that, then paint the second colour, all done.
Two examples done using the two different masking media
Two examples done using the two different masking media
After another long trip away at work and working on displays for some space memorabilia I thought the time was right for the last push to get the F9 finished. I had also got a bit side-tracked with starting another build, something I don’t normally do.
After another long trip away at work and working on displays for some space memorabilia I thought the time was right for the last push to get the F9 finished. I had also got a bit side-tracked with starting another build, something I don’t normally do.
The booster section was too big for the spray booth so had to make a temporary extension
The booster section was too big for the spray booth so had to make a temporary extension
The booster, interstage, second stage, trunk, and capsule were all primed with UMP primer and top coated with white SMS paint. This caused me some trouble as I think unconsciously I was worried about spraying a lacquer paint onto an Acrylic undercoat. The result was that I sprayed the topcoats too dry. The finish was Ok but appeared a bit dusty, I buffed them up with some micromesh cloth and at the time thought I had “got away” with it
The booster, interstage, second stage, trunk, and capsule were all primed with UMP primer and top coated with white SMS paint. This caused me some trouble as I think unconsciously I was worried about spraying a lacquer paint onto an Acrylic undercoat. The result was that I sprayed the topcoats too dry. The finish was Ok but appeared a bit dusty, I buffed them up with some micromesh cloth and at the time thought I had “got away” with it
Time to apply the masks for the logo’s to be sprayed
Time to apply the masks for the logo’s to be sprayed
Here I was laying out the guides for the masks on the booster section. I have learnt a short sharp lesson here that when designing, cutting and using your own masks a lot of thought and planning is needed for the placement and subsequent masking
Here I was laying out the guides for the masks on the booster section. I have learnt a short sharp lesson here that when designing, cutting and using your own masks a lot of thought and planning is needed for the placement and subsequent masking
Masks applied to the Interstage, and paint sprayed
Masks applied to the Interstage, and paint sprayed
Then as I started to remove the mask I noticed it was removing some of the top coat, and the newly applied paint as well
Then as I started to remove the mask I noticed it was removing some of the top coat, and the newly applied paint as well
So, it was time to go back to the drawing board with the interstage first. This was to be the first time I had tried to strip paint from a 3d printed resin item, I looked around in the forum and saw that someone had used Dettol antiseptic to successfully strip paint from 3d resin prints. I can report that yes it does work, the only downside is the smell is overpowering, and despite a lot of cold water rinses the parts still have a bit of a whiff to them
So, it was time to go back to the drawing board with the interstage first. This was to be the first time I had tried to strip paint from a 3d printed resin item, I looked around in the forum and saw that someone had used Dettol antiseptic to successfully strip paint from 3d resin prints. I can report that yes it does work, the only downside is the smell is overpowering, and despite a lot of cold water rinses the parts still have a bit of a whiff to them
I also saw that Tesco’s own brand all-purpose cleaner had been used, I couldn’t get any in our local shop, its only a small Metro style but did notice some Dettol all surface cleaner on offer, no bleach, no odour. Didn’t know if it would work, but grabbed a bottle on the off chance.
I also saw that Tesco’s own brand all-purpose cleaner had been used, I couldn’t get any in our local shop, its only a small Metro style but did notice some Dettol all surface cleaner on offer, no bleach, no odour. Didn’t know if it would work, but grabbed a bottle on the off chance.
Time for the long suffering Zebra Lightning to be abused again. It works like a dream, there was just a couple of places where it did not lift off the decals. They were removed with a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol
Time for the long suffering Zebra Lightning to be abused again. It works like a dream, there was just a couple of places where it did not lift off the decals. They were removed with a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol
The trunk section was Ok, bit whilst repositioning a mask on the capsule I saw that the same thing was happening with paint removal. But as I had some paint in the gun and the masks were in place, I thought I would paint it any way. That was when I noticed that the SpaceX lettering was “curved” due to the face it was in a straight line on a mask that was then applied to a conical surface. The top hatch mask was a separate one to the SpaceX logo and required lining up and was really close to the hatch profile so a fix was in order. I also noticed some not very nice looking “craters” at the capsule nose cone split line that needed filling as well. So in the bath went the capsule. With the exception of the booster, all the stripped items were repainted, this time they were primed with a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 White, that was thinned 50/50 with Mr Levelling thinner. Top coated with Mr Hobby white.
The trunk section was Ok, bit whilst repositioning a mask on the capsule I saw that the same thing was happening with paint removal. But as I had some paint in the gun and the masks were in place, I thought I would paint it any way. That was when I noticed that the SpaceX lettering was “curved” due to the face it was in a straight line on a mask that was then applied to a conical surface. The top hatch mask was a separate one to the SpaceX logo and required lining up and was really close to the hatch profile so a fix was in order. I also noticed some not very nice looking “craters” at the capsule nose cone split line that needed filling as well. So in the bath went the capsule. With the exception of the booster, all the stripped items were repainted, this time they were primed with a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 White, that was thinned 50/50 with Mr Levelling thinner. Top coated with Mr Hobby white.
The masks came of the booster and the dreaded curse of non-sticky paint reared it’s ugly head again. Down at the bottom in the masked area, and s small chip near the E
The masks came of the booster and the dreaded curse of non-sticky paint reared it’s ugly head again. Down at the bottom in the masked area, and s small chip near the E
This time though a couple of spot repairs worked out OK
This time though a couple of spot repairs worked out OK
I was pleased with how the 35 lettering turned out considering how small they are
I was pleased with how the 35 lettering turned out considering how small they are
The Logo on the other side came out with no issues
The Logo on the other side came out with no issues
Capsule all stripped and refilling the joint line underway
Capsule all stripped and refilling the joint line underway
Back to the drawing bord with the mask design. The masks for the Falcon 9 on the booster had the outside profile modified so that the notch at the bottom straddled a vent, this was to centre them and set the height correctly. The capsule top hatch & SpaceX lettering were incorporated into one mask. The SpaceX lettering was adjusted so that it was curved so that when applied it would appear straight
Back to the drawing bord with the mask design. The masks for the Falcon 9 on the booster had the outside profile modified so that the notch at the bottom straddled a vent, this was to centre them and set the height correctly. The capsule top hatch & SpaceX lettering were incorporated into one mask. The SpaceX lettering was adjusted so that it was curved so that when applied it would appear straight
Painting the interstage again, this shot shows how the mask profile was used to line it up with the vent, and the grid fin cut outs
Painting the interstage again, this shot shows how the mask profile was used to line it up with the vent, and the grid fin cut outs
The capsule all masked up and the SpaceX painting underway
The capsule all masked up and the SpaceX painting underway
Painted and ready for mask removal, again lessons learnt in that patience is required and it is best to leave well alone at least until the next day to ensure the paint has cured properly
Painted and ready for mask removal, again lessons learnt in that patience is required and it is best to leave well alone at least until the next day to ensure the paint has cured properly
Masks removed from the interstage & capsule, and this is when it shows that the time and extra effort over decaling is really worth it. No silvering to worry about or hoping that the clear coat will cover the carrier film.
Masks removed from the interstage & capsule, and this is when it shows that the time and extra effort over decaling is really worth it. No silvering to worry about or hoping that the clear coat will cover the carrier film.
With all the painting successfully completed all that was left was to assemble the pusher and gridfin actuator assemblies and glue the booster engine bells into place.
With all the painting successfully completed all that was left was to assemble the pusher and gridfin actuator assemblies and glue the booster engine bells into place.
That pretty much wrapped up the build
That pretty much wrapped up the build
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