Embedded Files
As mentioned in the introduction the lighting, and associated power supply turned out to be a major part of the build, and as such deserves a section of its own. The initial vague plan that i concocted was to install a few lights and run the power to them from batteries that would be tucked away behind a screen on a wooden base and up through through the support stand of the model. This then evolved to building an Apollo style switch panel to turn the lights on and off.
As mentioned in the introduction the lighting, and associated power supply turned out to be a major part of the build, and as such deserves a section of its own. The initial vague plan that i concocted was to install a few lights and run the power to them from batteries that would be tucked away behind a screen on a wooden base and up through through the support stand of the model. This then evolved to building an Apollo style switch panel to turn the lights on and off.
The lights in the service module are fibre optics, i went for these as there are 8 lights, 2 red, 2 green, and 4 amber. The optic looms come with about 8 separate strand in each assembly. That means that the 4 amber lights can be supplied from one loom. So all told you can light up 8 locations with three looms, each loom has its own colour. The fibres are cut to length with scissors, any unwanted ones are cut off at the base
The lights in the service module are fibre optics, i went for these as there are 8 lights, 2 red, 2 green, and 4 amber. The optic looms come with about 8 separate strand in each assembly. That means that the 4 amber lights can be supplied from one loom. So all told you can light up 8 locations with three looms, each loom has its own colour. The fibres are cut to length with scissors, any unwanted ones are cut off at the base
An early test to see if the wiring circuit design would work. The idea was to make as many supplies and earths as possible be common with each other. Doing it this way would reduce the amount of cables needed. The reduction was necessary as there is a very restricted amount of space available in the area at the base of the service module for the cables to run through
An early test to see if the wiring circuit design would work. The idea was to make as many supplies and earths as possible be common with each other. Doing it this way would reduce the amount of cables needed. The reduction was necessary as there is a very restricted amount of space available in the area at the base of the service module for the cables to run through
The complete system was simulated by placing the various lights in their approximate positions.
The complete system was simulated by placing the various lights in their approximate positions.
An initial schematic that was drawn up using Excel. Sixteen of the eighteen lights are powered from two battery packs. The two flashing lights each have their own supply. Later on the two packs were upped to three, and later again an extra two were added to accommodate the backlights, which are not shown on this early schematic It was done this way on advice from Jennifer Smith of JS Miniatures, who supplied the bulk of the components that were used to make the system. The rationale is that if you supply a standard on/off light from the same battery supply as a flashing light there is a potential for the flasher to make the other light go dim & bright in time with the flash. I became a member of a facebook group called Starship Model Lighting and Electronics Group and posted this asking for advice as to if it would work or not. Rick Fornalski who is the Owner/Admin for the site is very very knowledgeable, and takes time out to help anybody that asks. As I am a mechanical engineer by trade he found some of my methods of drawing a circuit and the terminology a "little bit strange".
An initial schematic that was drawn up using Excel. Sixteen of the eighteen lights are powered from two battery packs. The two flashing lights each have their own supply. Later on the two packs were upped to three, and later again an extra two were added to accommodate the backlights, which are not shown on this early schematic It was done this way on advice from Jennifer Smith of JS Miniatures, who supplied the bulk of the components that were used to make the system. The rationale is that if you supply a standard on/off light from the same battery supply as a flashing light there is a potential for the flasher to make the other light go dim & bright in time with the flash. I became a member of a facebook group called Starship Model Lighting and Electronics Group and posted this asking for advice as to if it would work or not. Rick Fornalski who is the Owner/Admin for the site is very very knowledgeable, and takes time out to help anybody that asks. As I am a mechanical engineer by trade he found some of my methods of drawing a circuit and the terminology a "little bit strange".
Three battery packs commoned to check for Voltages
Three battery packs commoned to check for Voltages
Getting the cables through the command module and into the Lunar module was one of the trickier tasks
Getting the cables through the command module and into the Lunar module was one of the trickier tasks
One of the fortunate effects of building an interior was that it created a void at the top of the model that was not visible. The cables come into the docking tunnel, which had a slot cut into it. The cables were then routed into a closed compartment at the rear of the model.
One of the fortunate effects of building an interior was that it created a void at the top of the model that was not visible. The cables come into the docking tunnel, which had a slot cut into it. The cables were then routed into a closed compartment at the rear of the model.
The base of the serivce module. Three bubches of cables are seen. One is to the service module lights, the second to the command module, the third go to the lunar module.
The base of the serivce module. Three bubches of cables are seen. One is to the service module lights, the second to the command module, the third go to the lunar module.
the front end of the module
the front end of the module
This shot sows the cables exiting through the engine bell. The original idea was to have the power supplies coming up through the steel tube and to join them with connectors at this point. That idea was ditched and the cables coming from the model are now one piece and run from end to end with no connections in this area
This shot sows the cables exiting through the engine bell. The original idea was to have the power supplies coming up through the steel tube and to join them with connectors at this point. That idea was ditched and the cables coming from the model are now one piece and run from end to end with no connections in this area
A paddle for the light switch. These are 3D printed, I designed them and supplied a sketch, the 3D drawing was made by Brian Usher, the drawing file uploaded to shapeways and from there printed. Below is a shot of the sketch that Brian used to create the STL file. And yes by now you will have guessed that i used Excel to make it. Eighteen months on from this i am now able to produce STL files myself as i have become halfway reasonable with 3D modelling
A paddle for the light switch. These are 3D printed, I designed them and supplied a sketch, the 3D drawing was made by Brian Usher, the drawing file uploaded to shapeways and from there printed. Below is a shot of the sketch that Brian used to create the STL file. And yes by now you will have guessed that i used Excel to make it. Eighteen months on from this i am now able to produce STL files myself as i have become halfway reasonable with 3D modelling
My original plan was to create the panel fascia from styrene. I did make one, but at the time i struggled to get the holes line up nicely and it looked like a dogs dinner. The final solution was to make one from aluminium and cut the slots and drill the holes using a milling machine. The toggle switches and the paddles installed for a fit check. The paddles are a push fit on to the stem of the toggle switch
My original plan was to create the panel fascia from styrene. I did make one, but at the time i struggled to get the holes line up nicely and it looked like a dogs dinner. The final solution was to make one from aluminium and cut the slots and drill the holes using a milling machine. The toggle switches and the paddles installed for a fit check. The paddles are a push fit on to the stem of the toggle switch
The graphics "mocked" up with printed paper to see the finished effect
The graphics "mocked" up with printed paper to see the finished effect
Page from a NASA document that confirms that Futura Demi Bold is the font used
Page from a NASA document that confirms that Futura Demi Bold is the font used
A reference photo of a real panel. The references were used to determine the words used for the switches. The Paddle and switch guard designs were also derived from these photos. The paddle shape and the switch guards were originally designed this way to take into account that an astronaut in a cumbersome spacesuit glove would have to operate them in Zero gee
A reference photo of a real panel. The references were used to determine the words used for the switches. The Paddle and switch guard designs were also derived from these photos. The paddle shape and the switch guards were originally designed this way to take into account that an astronaut in a cumbersome spacesuit glove would have to operate them in Zero gee
Forming the switch guard hoops from copper tube
Forming the switch guard hoops from copper tube
The assembly jigged up ready for soldering
The assembly jigged up ready for soldering
A hoop was installed at either end, and the intermediate ones installed after
A hoop was installed at either end, and the intermediate ones installed after
Two assemblies finish soldered
Two assemblies finish soldered
Holes drilled for guard fixing screws
Holes drilled for guard fixing screws
2mm Holes drilled in the fascia to fix the switch guards in place
2mm Holes drilled in the fascia to fix the switch guards in place
Set up for back-drilling guard
Set up for back-drilling guard
The switch guards were clamped in place and then backdrilled through
The switch guards were clamped in place and then backdrilled through
The switch guards drilled
The switch guards drilled
The holes tapped out 2mm, and the guards secured with M2 nylon screws
The holes tapped out 2mm, and the guards secured with M2 nylon screws
The panel, guards and toggles all painted up, here they are prepped to be clear coated with Matt varnish
The panel, guards and toggles all painted up, here they are prepped to be clear coated with Matt varnish
The completed panel. The graphics are waterslide decals that were produced by a guy called Josh Buma of Bedlam Creations. As they are white, and i have no way of creating white decals he was commissioned to supply these.
The completed panel. The graphics are waterslide decals that were produced by a guy called Josh Buma of Bedlam Creations. As they are white, and i have no way of creating white decals he was commissioned to supply these.
A flashing LED light has a fair amount of associated wiring that needs to be tucked away somewhere. In the case of the one in the service module a tube was made up to hold it
A flashing LED light has a fair amount of associated wiring that needs to be tucked away somewhere. In the case of the one in the service module a tube was made up to hold it
Hole drilled to accept the tube
Hole drilled to accept the tube
The tube installed, and the cables safely tucked away
The tube installed, and the cables safely tucked away
The EVA light had been made previously, but a method of installing and securing it had not been designed
The EVA light had been made previously, but a method of installing and securing it had not been designed
This was the solution arrived at, the larger diameter tube is a push fit into a hole drilled in the side of the service module
This was the solution arrived at, the larger diameter tube is a push fit into a hole drilled in the side of the service module
The LED is installed through the tube
The LED is installed through the tube
The lens glued on to the end and the assembly is painted
The lens glued on to the end and the assembly is painted
Soldering a connector in
Soldering a connector in
Now with the lunar Module all but finished, and the major works to the Command and Service Modules done it was time to finalise the plan for a display base
Now with the lunar Module all but finished, and the major works to the Command and Service Modules done it was time to finalise the plan for a display base
The assembly was stacked again
The assembly was stacked again
The LM descent stage secured in place last
The LM descent stage secured in place last
Using the bench as a reference, and a couple of old quilting rulers that my mum had given me, a footprint of the model was calculated. The height was also noted so that a perspex case could be obtained
Using the bench as a reference, and a couple of old quilting rulers that my mum had given me, a footprint of the model was calculated. The height was also noted so that a perspex case could be obtained
The idea of having a pull out section of the base to house the batteries on was scribbled on a piece of scrap paper
The idea of having a pull out section of the base to house the batteries on was scribbled on a piece of scrap paper
The dimensions were noted on the back. Armed with this high quality drawing I went to see one of my friends who owns a joinery company with a "Can you just".
The dimensions were noted on the back. Armed with this high quality drawing I went to see one of my friends who owns a joinery company with a "Can you just".
And this was the end result, a superb piece of work.
And this was the end result, a superb piece of work.
The tray is shown pulled out
The tray is shown pulled out
The switch panel was complete, but still needed a cabinet to house it
The switch panel was complete, but still needed a cabinet to house it
I have found that trying to drill larger holes in styrene difficult sometimes as the drill grabs and creates out of round holes. This is the method i have had success with by using the dremel. It is also handy for drilling holes that need to be on the same centre line as a straight edge clamped to the table acts as a guide
I have found that trying to drill larger holes in styrene difficult sometimes as the drill grabs and creates out of round holes. This is the method i have had success with by using the dremel. It is also handy for drilling holes that need to be on the same centre line as a straight edge clamped to the table acts as a guide
The front face with stiffening ribs is completed
The front face with stiffening ribs is completed
Lining up the side walls
Lining up the side walls
Clamping and gluing the walls. The glue I use when making styrene items is a solvent called MEK. It is a thin clear liquid that looks like and has the same consistency as water, and forms a bond by melting the styrene and fusing it together. Applied with a brush it forms a near instant bond. Once you get the hang of using it the results are great, and it is possible to build something pretty quickly. A few dabs is enough to join things strongly enough to handle within seconds, then if you are satisfied with the line up an extra amount is painted down the joint line to form a permanent joint
Clamping and gluing the walls. The glue I use when making styrene items is a solvent called MEK. It is a thin clear liquid that looks like and has the same consistency as water, and forms a bond by melting the styrene and fusing it together. Applied with a brush it forms a near instant bond. Once you get the hang of using it the results are great, and it is possible to build something pretty quickly. A few dabs is enough to join things strongly enough to handle within seconds, then if you are satisfied with the line up an extra amount is painted down the joint line to form a permanent joint
The fascia is installed for a test fit
The fascia is installed for a test fit
The finished cabinet, with a removable rear door
The finished cabinet, with a removable rear door
Joints filled, sanded and a coat of primer added
Joints filled, sanded and a coat of primer added
The assembly was stacked again so that the final position of the switch panel could be decided upon. Also set out on the base are some items from the mission that i may include in the display. The signature is the mission commander's. The gold section of foil is from the command module. The piece of foil encased in clear resin was from the lunar module-two small pieces of history that were aboard the space craft during its mission.
The assembly was stacked again so that the final position of the switch panel could be decided upon. Also set out on the base are some items from the mission that i may include in the display. The signature is the mission commander's. The gold section of foil is from the command module. The piece of foil encased in clear resin was from the lunar module-two small pieces of history that were aboard the space craft during its mission.
The view from the rear of the display, with the battery tray pulled out, the start of the layout and design of the power supply circuit.
The view from the rear of the display, with the battery tray pulled out, the start of the layout and design of the power supply circuit.
Using a jig to drill the holes for the switch panel securing bolts
Using a jig to drill the holes for the switch panel securing bolts
The base ready for staining. It was coloured with wood stain, and then coated with Danish oil
The base ready for staining. It was coloured with wood stain, and then coated with Danish oil
Not having any real experience with this type of electrical work i just took a stab in the dark and ordered a bunch of bits and pieces from RS supplies.
Not having any real experience with this type of electrical work i just took a stab in the dark and ordered a bunch of bits and pieces from RS supplies.
I still had no real plan and the ideas were rattling around in my head, so it was time to get some concrete plans made, starting with the general lay out
I still had no real plan and the ideas were rattling around in my head, so it was time to get some concrete plans made, starting with the general lay out
Then light, by light how they would be connected
Then light, by light how they would be connected
Also a blow by blow assembly sequence was drawn out, starting with installing the wiring
Also a blow by blow assembly sequence was drawn out, starting with installing the wiring
Block diagrams made of how the model would be supported through the varying stages of assembly. This process forced me to modify some of the existing jigs that i had, and to make some more to help in the process. Statement number 9 above was blithely written as "connect the wiring bundle to the pre-prepared base connections. Little did i know what an epic task it would be to design and build the pre-prepared base connections would be
Block diagrams made of how the model would be supported through the varying stages of assembly. This process forced me to modify some of the existing jigs that i had, and to make some more to help in the process. Statement number 9 above was blithely written as "connect the wiring bundle to the pre-prepared base connections. Little did i know what an epic task it would be to design and build the pre-prepared base connections would be
Armed with what I called an "Assembly Work Flow" the next stage was to do a dry run to see if the plan was workable. The idea behind all of this was that as the model nears completion handling it without damage becomes harder. When the time comes for final assembly i wanted to know that is would all come together with no nasty surprises. In this shot the service module flasher and the EVA light are installed
Armed with what I called an "Assembly Work Flow" the next stage was to do a dry run to see if the plan was workable. The idea behind all of this was that as the model nears completion handling it without damage becomes harder. When the time comes for final assembly i wanted to know that is would all come together with no nasty surprises. In this shot the service module flasher and the EVA light are installed
The command module has been installed and the wires for the LM threaded through as well. The assembly is upended and supported on a jig
The command module has been installed and the wires for the LM threaded through as well. The assembly is upended and supported on a jig
Heatshield and engine bell are installed and the wires fed through
Heatshield and engine bell are installed and the wires fed through
The support arm has the wires pulled throgh and the it is secured in place
The support arm has the wires pulled throgh and the it is secured in place
The model is then installed to the display stand
The model is then installed to the display stand
The lunar model is then installed and the wires pulled through the cable tunnel ready for connection
The lunar model is then installed and the wires pulled through the cable tunnel ready for connection
This prompted me to make an extra jig that can be installed to stiffen the assembly whilst it is being pulled, pushed, and tugged about when the wiring is being installed. A lot of the fine, very delicate details, will be added at this stage. Such items as the radio antenna, small thruster nozzles, and grab handles
This prompted me to make an extra jig that can be installed to stiffen the assembly whilst it is being pulled, pushed, and tugged about when the wiring is being installed. A lot of the fine, very delicate details, will be added at this stage. Such items as the radio antenna, small thruster nozzles, and grab handles
I decided that it would be good to have the option of powering the lights from an external mains supply as an alternative to the batteries. I posed the question on the lighting group on facebook of how to "switch from mains to battery supply". The answer was surprisingly simple, a jack plug that had three contacts. When the plug is inserted two of the contacts create a circuit and mains power feeds the circuit. One of these contacts is "spring loaded", so when the plug is removed it breaks the contact and another circuit is made, this then makes the battery circuit live
I decided that it would be good to have the option of powering the lights from an external mains supply as an alternative to the batteries. I posed the question on the lighting group on facebook of how to "switch from mains to battery supply". The answer was surprisingly simple, a jack plug that had three contacts. When the plug is inserted two of the contacts create a circuit and mains power feeds the circuit. One of these contacts is "spring loaded", so when the plug is removed it breaks the contact and another circuit is made, this then makes the battery circuit live
The solution of the 3 pin jack plug was straight forward enough, but i decided to make life difficult for myself by adding the stipulation that when running on batteries the flasher lights would run on their own dedicated supplies. This was where i entered the realms of SPDT on on & DTDT switches, didn't really have a clue, so ordered a couple of each type that i thought would be useful. After a lot of head scratching i finally came up with this solution. Also added were a couple more battery packs to supply a couple of "back lights" lights to illuminate the whole model
The solution of the 3 pin jack plug was straight forward enough, but i decided to make life difficult for myself by adding the stipulation that when running on batteries the flasher lights would run on their own dedicated supplies. This was where i entered the realms of SPDT on on & DTDT switches, didn't really have a clue, so ordered a couple of each type that i thought would be useful. After a lot of head scratching i finally came up with this solution. Also added were a couple more battery packs to supply a couple of "back lights" lights to illuminate the whole model
As i found it difficult to visualise the circuit in its two states separate drawings were made showing the switches in their different positions
As i found it difficult to visualise the circuit in its two states separate drawings were made showing the switches in their different positions
Laying out the battery packs
Laying out the battery packs
the toggle switches had extension wire added
the toggle switches had extension wire added
Constructing a common supply for the power. This is one area that i would do differently if i ever tackle the project again. Some of the installation was made with items that i had to hand and were made to work, and in retrospect were not the most appropriate or elegant
Constructing a common supply for the power. This is one area that i would do differently if i ever tackle the project again. Some of the installation was made with items that i had to hand and were made to work, and in retrospect were not the most appropriate or elegant
During the assembly check i powered up the lights
During the assembly check i powered up the lights
As there were a myriad of wires to and from the model and the switch panel i decided to colour code them for ease of assembly later on
As there were a myriad of wires to and from the model and the switch panel i decided to colour code them for ease of assembly later on
The whole assembly was made with a sheet of styrene, with sub plates glued in place. They were drilled and tapped and then the termal strips and PCB,s attached with small screws
The whole assembly was made with a sheet of styrene, with sub plates glued in place. They were drilled and tapped and then the termal strips and PCB,s attached with small screws
A clamp was made to secure the wring loom from the panel switches
A clamp was made to secure the wring loom from the panel switches
Backlight construction begins with the light holder
Backlight construction begins with the light holder
Housing frames made
Housing frames made
Securing holes drilled and tapped
Securing holes drilled and tapped
Led backlight with extension wires soldered in place and powered up
Led backlight with extension wires soldered in place and powered up
Light installed
Light installed
The external PSU was received, also on the bench was the start if the assemby with the battery packs and a few terminal strips in place
The external PSU was received, also on the bench was the start if the assemby with the battery packs and a few terminal strips in place
Testing the jack plug (the correct description is a barrel plug). This was to see which connections were live with the plug inserted
Testing the jack plug (the correct description is a barrel plug). This was to see which connections were live with the plug inserted
This sketch was made from the testing
This sketch was made from the testing
A shot of the plug and the three pin socket
A shot of the plug and the three pin socket
one switch and the socket mounted in a sub frame
one switch and the socket mounted in a sub frame
Testing the switch positions
Testing the switch positions
Construction a housing for the switch frame
Construction a housing for the switch frame
the switch was drilled and an extension glued in to it
the switch was drilled and an extension glued in to it
The second switch was mounted directly below the first one
The second switch was mounted directly below the first one
A hole drilled and tapped in the second switch
A hole drilled and tapped in the second switch
an acuator made which is a push fit over the first switch, and then finally the two switches are "tied" together with a small screw
an acuator made which is a push fit over the first switch, and then finally the two switches are "tied" together with a small screw
Up to this point i had been making my connections by soldering test leads to the end of the cables, this gave the pin that could then be inserted into the screw plate terminal. Preparing soldering and heatshrinking these was a tedious and time consuming business. I then decided (prompted by seeing the electricians at work using them) to use bootlace ferrules, a bag of them are in the foreground. A specialised crimping tool was bought, and it is a quick straight forward job to strip the wire push on a ferrule and crimp it.
Up to this point i had been making my connections by soldering test leads to the end of the cables, this gave the pin that could then be inserted into the screw plate terminal. Preparing soldering and heatshrinking these was a tedious and time consuming business. I then decided (prompted by seeing the electricians at work using them) to use bootlace ferrules, a bag of them are in the foreground. A specialised crimping tool was bought, and it is a quick straight forward job to strip the wire push on a ferrule and crimp it.
The ferrule crimper is to the left of the drawing
The ferrule crimper is to the left of the drawing
A further refinement to the system was added with an extension to the switch interlock. This ensures that the switches are in the correct position when the external power supply is plugged in
A further refinement to the system was added with an extension to the switch interlock. This ensures that the switches are in the correct position when the external power supply is plugged in
The interlock partially covers the socket hole, and the only way that the plug can be inserted is if the switch is moved to the right.
The interlock partially covers the socket hole, and the only way that the plug can be inserted is if the switch is moved to the right.
Extra guides were needed to stop the interlock plate flexing
Extra guides were needed to stop the interlock plate flexing
The inside of the housing was also stiffened
The inside of the housing was also stiffened
The original baseplate was not big enough to accomodate all the components, an extension was needed. Here a fishplate was made to join the two plates
The original baseplate was not big enough to accomodate all the components, an extension was needed. Here a fishplate was made to join the two plates
The fishplate ready join the two baseplates
The fishplate ready join the two baseplates
the two sections joined. The purpose of the holes is too give a grater surface area available for gluing
the two sections joined. The purpose of the holes is too give a grater surface area available for gluing
All the terminal strips are installed
All the terminal strips are installed
The switch and plug housing completed
The switch and plug housing completed
A wiring schedule was created to work to
A wiring schedule was created to work to
The completed Power Supply Circuit, ready to be tested
The completed Power Supply Circuit, ready to be tested
The Switch panel was hooked up and checks were made to make sure that voltage was available at the correct terminal relative to the switch markings. This caused me some grief for a while, i kept getting voltage where it should not have been possible. It turned out that when i had ordered some of the terminal strips i didn't pay close enough attention to the specs. The terminals in one type of strip are independent of each other, the second type were common. In this second type when you power up one post it powers up all the ones in that strip. I had a couple of the second type installed, and not knowing they were like this it absolutely threw me for a while.
The Switch panel was hooked up and checks were made to make sure that voltage was available at the correct terminal relative to the switch markings. This caused me some grief for a while, i kept getting voltage where it should not have been possible. It turned out that when i had ordered some of the terminal strips i didn't pay close enough attention to the specs. The terminals in one type of strip are independent of each other, the second type were common. In this second type when you power up one post it powers up all the ones in that strip. I had a couple of the second type installed, and not knowing they were like this it absolutely threw me for a while.
Now i knew that when i threw a switch it would actually send power to the correct light a system and endurance test was carried out. I was advised by Rick Fornalski that when using a barrel plug system of switching earths in a circuit to control power supplies to be very, very careful that it is absolutely correct before applying power. There were enough spare lights in my stash to hook up and simulate the complete system. All of the lights were switched on and powered from the batteries, and left on for about 20 minutes with no ill effects, or noticeable dimming. The external mains PSU was then plugged in and the lights were left on for 20 minutes, thankfully with no overheating issues. There was also no noticeable difference in brightness of the lights when switching between the two supplies. I was now confident that when the time comes for final assembly and the lights are turned on for the first time nothing would go up in a puff of smoke.
Now i knew that when i threw a switch it would actually send power to the correct light a system and endurance test was carried out. I was advised by Rick Fornalski that when using a barrel plug system of switching earths in a circuit to control power supplies to be very, very careful that it is absolutely correct before applying power. There were enough spare lights in my stash to hook up and simulate the complete system. All of the lights were switched on and powered from the batteries, and left on for about 20 minutes with no ill effects, or noticeable dimming. The external mains PSU was then plugged in and the lights were left on for 20 minutes, thankfully with no overheating issues. There was also no noticeable difference in brightness of the lights when switching between the two supplies. I was now confident that when the time comes for final assembly and the lights are turned on for the first time nothing would go up in a puff of smoke.
A housing for the backlight push button switch
A housing for the backlight push button switch
When the tray is pulled in and out the cables that come from the switch panel are dragged about a bit, so a support cum swivel bracket was made
When the tray is pulled in and out the cables that come from the switch panel are dragged about a bit, so a support cum swivel bracket was made
Marking out the positions of the holes in the base for the switches and plugs
Marking out the positions of the holes in the base for the switches and plugs
Holes drilled
Holes drilled
Trial fit to make sure all lined up ok
Trial fit to make sure all lined up ok
A closeup of the ports showing the middle switch is to the left, and this is blocking the plug access. In this mode the batteries are live.
A closeup of the ports showing the middle switch is to the left, and this is blocking the plug access. In this mode the batteries are live.
Nut holders made. These hold the securing nuts for the PSU tray
Nut holders made. These hold the securing nuts for the PSU tray
Nut holders installed
Nut holders installed
Holes drilled in the side of the base for the securing screws, slide the base home and insert the screws to keep it in place. Also installed were a couple of restraining chains to restrict how far the tray can be pulled out
Holes drilled in the side of the base for the securing screws, slide the base home and insert the screws to keep it in place. Also installed were a couple of restraining chains to restrict how far the tray can be pulled out
A one piece fascia was made, and a slider for the centre switch
A one piece fascia was made, and a slider for the centre switch
All hooked up and checked out
All hooked up and checked out
The slider switch was beefed up the edges bevelled to make it look nicer. The black "dot" to the right is the push button switch to turn the backlights on & off
The slider switch was beefed up the edges bevelled to make it look nicer. The black "dot" to the right is the push button switch to turn the backlights on & off
A check was done to determine the position of the backlights
A check was done to determine the position of the backlights
Holes drilled and backlights positioned
Holes drilled and backlights positioned
Backlights in position and checked
Backlights in position and checked
Then it was all stripped down again for final topcoat painting. To the left is the nameplate, this is an aluminium engrave nameplate. The font is Futura, which is the font that NASA used during the Apollo program
Then it was all stripped down again for final topcoat painting. To the left is the nameplate, this is an aluminium engrave nameplate. The font is Futura, which is the font that NASA used during the Apollo program
The backlight LED's installed into their holders, and silver aluminium tape applied to stop light leakage
The backlight LED's installed into their holders, and silver aluminium tape applied to stop light leakage
Backlight housings fixed to the base
Backlight housings fixed to the base
Switch panel wiring loom secured and ready for final install
Switch panel wiring loom secured and ready for final install
Panel and backlight wiring tied together
Panel and backlight wiring tied together
A couple of days after the final installation one of the backlights stopped working. I stripped it out and discovered i had suffered a case of severe brainfade by using the aluminium tape to stop the light leakage. As i had not placed heatshrink on the light terminals all the way to the body the tape was causing a dead short across them. The adhesive had acted as an insulator on one, but not this one. Both units were stripped out and the offending tape replaced with non conductive masking tape. Thankfully there was no damage done
A couple of days after the final installation one of the backlights stopped working. I stripped it out and discovered i had suffered a case of severe brainfade by using the aluminium tape to stop the light leakage. As i had not placed heatshrink on the light terminals all the way to the body the tape was causing a dead short across them. The adhesive had acted as an insulator on one, but not this one. Both units were stripped out and the offending tape replaced with non conductive masking tape. Thankfully there was no damage done
A shot of the base all hooked up, the backlights on and running from batteries
A shot of the base all hooked up, the backlights on and running from batteries
The completed base from behind
The completed base from behind
And a shot from the front
And a shot from the front
The perspex display case was delivered, The packaging was "adequate" to say the least
The perspex display case was delivered, The packaging was "adequate" to say the least
Despite having the odd wobble and convincing myself it was the wrong size before i got it upstairs and tried it out, it fits like a glove
Despite having the odd wobble and convincing myself it was the wrong size before i got it upstairs and tried it out, it fits like a glove
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