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The kit used for the build is the Horizon Models 1-72nd Scale Mercury Atlas
The kit used for the build is the Horizon Models 1-72nd Scale Mercury Atlas
First job was to have a good look at the instructions and understand which parts to use as the kit contains parts to make differing variants of the launch vehicle and capsule.
First job was to have a good look at the instructions and understand which parts to use as the kit contains parts to make differing variants of the launch vehicle and capsule.
The parts are dry fitted and go together extremely will. The kit is well made and thoughtfully engineered
The parts are dry fitted and go together extremely will. The kit is well made and thoughtfully engineered
For this build I will be using Alclad Bare metal finishes, out came the long-suffering Lightning and some tests carried out.
For this build I will be using Alclad Bare metal finishes, out came the long-suffering Lightning and some tests carried out.
The engine bells were glued, and work done on the two plates that attach to the boat tail. These plates had moulded in rivets that looked overscale, so I decided to remove them.
The engine bells were glued, and work done on the two plates that attach to the boat tail. These plates had moulded in rivets that looked overscale, so I decided to remove them.
The main body halves were cleaned up and inspected, the fit is very good, and minimal work will be required to tidy up the seam.
The main body halves were cleaned up and inspected, the fit is very good, and minimal work will be required to tidy up the seam.
As I was building a custom base a method to support the rocket on needed designing. I decided to glue some tubes into the base of the rocket that would accept a couple of rods that would be attached to the display base. The heatshield at the base shown here with the original mounting holes for the engine bells.
As I was building a custom base a method to support the rocket on needed designing. I decided to glue some tubes into the base of the rocket that would accept a couple of rods that would be attached to the display base. The heatshield at the base shown here with the original mounting holes for the engine bells.
The holes were opened to 3mm diameter and temporary locating bolts secured into place. The tubes were cut to length and bases attached to them.
The holes were opened to 3mm diameter and temporary locating bolts secured into place. The tubes were cut to length and bases attached to them.
Glue mixed and poured into the engine compartment and the heatshield put into place with clamps applied to the split line.
Glue mixed and poured into the engine compartment and the heatshield put into place with clamps applied to the split line.
The epoxy has cured, and the heatshield is removed to remove the temporary bolts. The epoxy at the base also gives a low centre of gravity which aids in keeping the model stable.
The epoxy has cured, and the heatshield is removed to remove the temporary bolts. The epoxy at the base also gives a low centre of gravity which aids in keeping the model stable.
The base was mocked up with temporary rods and the model attached to check for stability.
The base was mocked up with temporary rods and the model attached to check for stability.
I had looked online to see examples of other peoples builds and noted that one modeller had filled the cavity of the rocket with expanding foam to stiffen the shell up to help with filling and rescribing any detail lost when sanding the joints. A circle of styrene was cut with a suitable hole in the middle to accept the nozzle of the foam applicator
I had looked online to see examples of other peoples builds and noted that one modeller had filled the cavity of the rocket with expanding foam to stiffen the shell up to help with filling and rescribing any detail lost when sanding the joints. A circle of styrene was cut with a suitable hole in the middle to accept the nozzle of the foam applicator
The model was well wrapped up to stop any foam getting to the outside surfaces and the foam applied.
The model was well wrapped up to stop any foam getting to the outside surfaces and the foam applied.
Sprue goo was applied to the joints.
Sprue goo was applied to the joints.
The boatail had some horizontal panel lines which do not appear to have been on the actual rocket, so these were filled as well.
The boatail had some horizontal panel lines which do not appear to have been on the actual rocket, so these were filled as well.
The engine bells were filled at the seam using Alclad black primer with micro filler. Very thin strips of emery were cut and used to sand then seams without destroying the raised sections
The engine bells were filled at the seam using Alclad black primer with micro filler. Very thin strips of emery were cut and used to sand then seams without destroying the raised sections
The main body and the boat tail were then sanded after leaving the sprue goo a couple of days to fully cure. A light coat of primer will be sprayed on all the seams next to see of the filling is acceptable.
The main body and the boat tail were then sanded after leaving the sprue goo a couple of days to fully cure. A light coat of primer will be sprayed on all the seams next to see of the filling is acceptable.
I had been looking around for a stand to place rockets on during construction. There are a lot on the market for the model plane and car builders, but none for the space modeller.
I had been looking around for a stand to place rockets on during construction. There are a lot on the market for the model plane and car builders, but none for the space modeller.
So i decided to make my own, and here it is getting used for the first time
So i decided to make my own, and here it is getting used for the first time
The black items are 3d printed, and the main strut at the bottom is an aluminium extrusion
The black items are 3d printed, and the main strut at the bottom is an aluminium extrusion
Then it was time to rescribe the panel lines that had been covered with sprue goo at the seam. The lines were re-scribed and then a coat of black MR Surfacer 1500 sprayed on to check the finish. This showed up some mistakes in the scribing and also some small voids left from the sprue goo. This is where Alclad primer with mocro filler comes in handy. In the bottom left image it is painted onto the seam ans left to dry. It can then be sanded and successfully scribed. The bonus is that it only takes about 15-20 minutes to harden of and be ready to work with
Then it was time to rescribe the panel lines that had been covered with sprue goo at the seam. The lines were re-scribed and then a coat of black MR Surfacer 1500 sprayed on to check the finish. This showed up some mistakes in the scribing and also some small voids left from the sprue goo. This is where Alclad primer with mocro filler comes in handy. In the bottom left image it is painted onto the seam ans left to dry. It can then be sanded and successfully scribed. The bonus is that it only takes about 15-20 minutes to harden of and be ready to work with
Here the boat tail is being inspected after a coat of primer and some very small imperfections at the seam line can be seen. A quick dab of Alclad and a polish up with fine emery cloth will sort these out
Here the boat tail is being inspected after a coat of primer and some very small imperfections at the seam line can be seen. A quick dab of Alclad and a polish up with fine emery cloth will sort these out
I made a right pigs ear of re-scribing the panel lines on the conical section of the rocket. I tried to use a straight piece of Dymo tape and this did not work at all. A classic case of trying to save some time and ending up spending more time putting the mess up right. What was needed to do the job correctly was some scribing templates
I made a right pigs ear of re-scribing the panel lines on the conical section of the rocket. I tried to use a straight piece of Dymo tape and this did not work at all. A classic case of trying to save some time and ending up spending more time putting the mess up right. What was needed to do the job correctly was some scribing templates
First step was to go online and use a cone generator. Knowing the large diameter, small diameter and the height of the cone the online generator produces a template. The info generated from the template is then used to create a drawing using Solid edge drafting. In this drawing the panel lines are added. This was printed and taped to the model. There were a few slight discrepancies, these can be seen marked up on the paper template. The drawing was modified so as to line everything up correctly. The drawing was then transferred to the Silhouette Cameo software. The first attempt at the transfer did not work, I had trimmed away all the unwanted lines and then transferred the drawing. Foe some reason the Cameo software interpreted that with some strangely skewed shapes. The answer was to transfer the complete drawing and then modify that. To be noted thyat the Cameo software does not accept Solid edge drawings, the work around is to save the solid edge draing as a DFX file. The DFX file is supported in the Cameo software. From this the cameo was used to cut the templates from 0.5mm (20 thou) thick styrene sheet
First step was to go online and use a cone generator. Knowing the large diameter, small diameter and the height of the cone the online generator produces a template. The info generated from the template is then used to create a drawing using Solid edge drafting. In this drawing the panel lines are added. This was printed and taped to the model. There were a few slight discrepancies, these can be seen marked up on the paper template. The drawing was modified so as to line everything up correctly. The drawing was then transferred to the Silhouette Cameo software. The first attempt at the transfer did not work, I had trimmed away all the unwanted lines and then transferred the drawing. Foe some reason the Cameo software interpreted that with some strangely skewed shapes. The answer was to transfer the complete drawing and then modify that. To be noted thyat the Cameo software does not accept Solid edge drawings, the work around is to save the solid edge draing as a DFX file. The DFX file is supported in the Cameo software. From this the cameo was used to cut the templates from 0.5mm (20 thou) thick styrene sheet
Here are the finished templates
Here are the finished templates
During the sanding and clean up of the seams on the boat-tail i managed to destroy a couple of details, these being the support brackets. Replacements were cut from styrene and glued in place
During the sanding and clean up of the seams on the boat-tail i managed to destroy a couple of details, these being the support brackets. Replacements were cut from styrene and glued in place
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