Embedded Files
The Lunar module is made up of two main parts, the Descent and Ascent stages. The Descent stage is the bottom section that contained the large engine, fuel tanks, batteries, supplies and equipment. The upper section was the pressurised crew compartment, and was a spacecraft in its own right, having its own propulsion and manoeuvring thrusters. The two astronauts would fly the two connected sections down to the moons surface, the descent stage large engine being used to control and land the vehicle. When they were ready to leave explosive devices were detonated and the two halves were disconnected from each other and the ascent engine would ignite and hurl them back up into orbit, where they would meet and dock with the command module that had been circling above them. Here is the section devoted to the descent stage build
The Lunar module is made up of two main parts, the Descent and Ascent stages. The Descent stage is the bottom section that contained the large engine, fuel tanks, batteries, supplies and equipment. The upper section was the pressurised crew compartment, and was a spacecraft in its own right, having its own propulsion and manoeuvring thrusters. The two astronauts would fly the two connected sections down to the moons surface, the descent stage large engine being used to control and land the vehicle. When they were ready to leave explosive devices were detonated and the two halves were disconnected from each other and the ascent engine would ignite and hurl them back up into orbit, where they would meet and dock with the command module that had been circling above them. Here is the section devoted to the descent stage build
The first job was to modify the engine thrust nozzle by adding a guide tube and casting some glue with a washer, so the stages can be fixed to each other
The first job was to modify the engine thrust nozzle by adding a guide tube and casting some glue with a washer, so the stages can be fixed to each other
Internal bobbin parts prepared, the modified engine thruster can be seen with the guide tube glued in place
Internal bobbin parts prepared, the modified engine thruster can be seen with the guide tube glued in place
The aft heat shield was jigged up square with the engine bell in place (not glued)
The aft heat shield was jigged up square with the engine bell in place (not glued)
The completed bobbin
The completed bobbin
The bobbin and top deck clamped and glued to the heatshield
The bobbin and top deck clamped and glued to the heatshield
The internal structure was completed using styrene sheet. The four tabs have threaded holes in them, used to secure the descent stage shell to the heatshield
The internal structure was completed using styrene sheet. The four tabs have threaded holes in them, used to secure the descent stage shell to the heatshield
It was about this time i started experimenting with different types of material to simulate the finishes seen on the real craft. One of the types of insulation was covered in a flat black paint called Pyromark. It was very thin Inconel sheet that had a slightly rumpled look about it, not a wrinkled look that the gold coloured Kapton has. The one i finally went for was a "metallised" food bag that is paper outside and foil covered on the inside. It can be screwed up to give an amount of wrinkle, painted then applied to the model. A supply of these were obtained from my local Indian restaurant. Originally i painted the foil side, but the paint did not adhere very well and i was going to abandon the idea. It took a while for me to realise it but the answer was to paint the other side...................
It was about this time i started experimenting with different types of material to simulate the finishes seen on the real craft. One of the types of insulation was covered in a flat black paint called Pyromark. It was very thin Inconel sheet that had a slightly rumpled look about it, not a wrinkled look that the gold coloured Kapton has. The one i finally went for was a "metallised" food bag that is paper outside and foil covered on the inside. It can be screwed up to give an amount of wrinkle, painted then applied to the model. A supply of these were obtained from my local Indian restaurant. Originally i painted the foil side, but the paint did not adhere very well and i was going to abandon the idea. It took a while for me to realise it but the answer was to paint the other side...................
Here is a shot of a lunar module on the moon showing the black Pyromark covered area.
Here is a shot of a lunar module on the moon showing the black Pyromark covered area.
A flight shot of Spider taken from the Command Module, whilst still inside the stage.
A flight shot of Spider taken from the Command Module, whilst still inside the stage.
The next panels that i looked at were the ones directly behind the landing gear. The outer insulation is made up of multiple layers of different thicknesses of varying colours. When combined give a very distinctive colour. Before closely looking at Apollo 9 most of the images I had seen in general circulation show there are what appear to be two distinct "golden" colours present. Looking closely at Apollo 9's Lunar Module-nicknamed Spider the flight photos show these panels as a deep crimson with a clear transparent outer cover. In photos of Spider whilst being built the panels appear a really deep, dark golden brown. This is has then led me to the following conclusions, some are mine, some are other folks.
The next panels that i looked at were the ones directly behind the landing gear. The outer insulation is made up of multiple layers of different thicknesses of varying colours. When combined give a very distinctive colour. Before closely looking at Apollo 9 most of the images I had seen in general circulation show there are what appear to be two distinct "golden" colours present. Looking closely at Apollo 9's Lunar Module-nicknamed Spider the flight photos show these panels as a deep crimson with a clear transparent outer cover. In photos of Spider whilst being built the panels appear a really deep, dark golden brown. This is has then led me to the following conclusions, some are mine, some are other folks.
1. Don't rely solely on photos taken during the construction of the vehicle as you can't rely on the fact you are seeing the final article. Apollo 11's LM is a classic example as insulation and components were still being added when the LM was on the launchpad inside the Saturn V
1. Don't rely solely on photos taken during the construction of the vehicle as you can't rely on the fact you are seeing the final article. Apollo 11's LM is a classic example as insulation and components were still being added when the LM was on the launchpad inside the Saturn V
2. Unless you have incontrovertible proof of a colour there is no right or wrong, it is a matter of interpretation.
2. Unless you have incontrovertible proof of a colour there is no right or wrong, it is a matter of interpretation.
3. Where, if possible base your decisions on flight photographs (Mike Makowski's advice to me).
3. Where, if possible base your decisions on flight photographs (Mike Makowski's advice to me).
4. Be very wary of using museum exhibits as references for colour matching (John Duncan).
4. Be very wary of using museum exhibits as references for colour matching (John Duncan).
5. The colour you are seeing in an image may be an artifact of the photography, or even the environment where the shot was taken . Classic examples of this are shots of older Russian Space Vehicles. They appear to be an olive drab colour, but in reality it is widely acknowledged that they were grey. Another example is the interior of the Lunar Module. Look at closeout photos and the interior takes on a very greenish grey. Look at historical NASA documents and the colour is pinned down to being a mid to darkish grey (no hint of green at all).
5. The colour you are seeing in an image may be an artifact of the photography, or even the environment where the shot was taken . Classic examples of this are shots of older Russian Space Vehicles. They appear to be an olive drab colour, but in reality it is widely acknowledged that they were grey. Another example is the interior of the Lunar Module. Look at closeout photos and the interior takes on a very greenish grey. Look at historical NASA documents and the colour is pinned down to being a mid to darkish grey (no hint of green at all).
Photo of Spider in free flight. The panel to the left appears as a golden colour
Photo of Spider in free flight. The panel to the left appears as a golden colour
If you ask on any modelling forum, or Facebook group what people use for finishing the LM most will advise buying confectioners foil from a company called Candy Land Crafts, or alternatively become a choccyholic and consume loads of bars of chocolate in the search for the right coloured foil. The second option is becoming obsolete just lately as most chocolate seems to come in plastic wrappers only. A long time ago i bought some foils from Candy Land Crafts, and along with the golds and black, I also decided for some unknown reason to get some pink, and also some cherry red/crimson.
If you ask on any modelling forum, or Facebook group what people use for finishing the LM most will advise buying confectioners foil from a company called Candy Land Crafts, or alternatively become a choccyholic and consume loads of bars of chocolate in the search for the right coloured foil. The second option is becoming obsolete just lately as most chocolate seems to come in plastic wrappers only. A long time ago i bought some foils from Candy Land Crafts, and along with the golds and black, I also decided for some unknown reason to get some pink, and also some cherry red/crimson.
There are a few different approaches that have been used by modellers and kit makers to replicate the finish. Dragon models provide the kit with the plastic surface wrinkled and either paints are applied directly to it, or foil is glued to it. Other kits have a flat plastic surface that can either be painted directly, or foil can be "Screwed" up to wrinkle it and then glued into place. Some modellers then apply a thin wash coat to get the required shade. Vincent Meens has used the method of pieces of survival blankets attached with double sided tape
There are a few different approaches that have been used by modellers and kit makers to replicate the finish. Dragon models provide the kit with the plastic surface wrinkled and either paints are applied directly to it, or foil is glued to it. Other kits have a flat plastic surface that can either be painted directly, or foil can be "Screwed" up to wrinkle it and then glued into place. Some modellers then apply a thin wash coat to get the required shade. Vincent Meens has used the method of pieces of survival blankets attached with double sided tape
As well as trying to arrive at a colour I started thinking about the "look" of the finish, and how to achieve some depth. This really brought home to me how the same colour can look drastically different in differing lighting conditions, and even very different in the same conditions but viewed from different angles. Then take pictures of it and it looks different again, then compound that with viewing the pictures on a phone and comparing them with what you see on a PC screen.
As well as trying to arrive at a colour I started thinking about the "look" of the finish, and how to achieve some depth. This really brought home to me how the same colour can look drastically different in differing lighting conditions, and even very different in the same conditions but viewed from different angles. Then take pictures of it and it looks different again, then compound that with viewing the pictures on a phone and comparing them with what you see on a PC screen.
The photo on the left shows the first stab at producing a finish, using a piece of confectioners foil and covering it with cling film. The plan then was to glue or tape this to the model with double sided tape. This method works OK, but what i noted was that if you really push the foil hard against the tape you can see the shape of the tape through the foil and you loose the depth and any "floating/billowing" effect you made. It is difficult trying to put this into words.
The photo on the left shows the first stab at producing a finish, using a piece of confectioners foil and covering it with cling film. The plan then was to glue or tape this to the model with double sided tape. This method works OK, but what i noted was that if you really push the foil hard against the tape you can see the shape of the tape through the foil and you loose the depth and any "floating/billowing" effect you made. It is difficult trying to put this into words.
Rightly or wrongly i decided to go for the colours as they appear in the flight images. The panels behind the landing gear are made up of Candyland Crafts Red foil with a covering of red clear cellophane
Rightly or wrongly i decided to go for the colours as they appear in the flight images. The panels behind the landing gear are made up of Candyland Crafts Red foil with a covering of red clear cellophane
The method used was to make a set of additional panels from very thin styrene with locating pins glued in
The method used was to make a set of additional panels from very thin styrene with locating pins glued in
The foil was gently pre-wrinkled and the edges folded over and taped to the back of the panel. Then the cellophane was added. The Candyland Crafts foils are 3" X 3" and come in a pack of 125, enough for a lifetime of LM construction......
The foil was gently pre-wrinkled and the edges folded over and taped to the back of the panel. Then the cellophane was added. The Candyland Crafts foils are 3" X 3" and come in a pack of 125, enough for a lifetime of LM construction......
A finished panel
A finished panel
A jig was made for the locating pin positions
A jig was made for the locating pin positions
The jig in place for drilling the holes in the descent stage
The jig in place for drilling the holes in the descent stage
Holes drilled
Holes drilled
Panel in place with landing gear truss fitted
Panel in place with landing gear truss fitted
Another view, in this shot you can see that the descent stage is attached to a wooden stand/jig. Through out the construction i made a conscious decision to make stands/jigs to hold the model that would allow access to different areas easily, and also to store the sections that i was not working on at the time
Another view, in this shot you can see that the descent stage is attached to a wooden stand/jig. Through out the construction i made a conscious decision to make stands/jigs to hold the model that would allow access to different areas easily, and also to store the sections that i was not working on at the time
Work was started on the landing gear and it was here that i learnt a painful lesson. Shapeways fine detail plastic is extremely brittle and doesn't lend itself to be easily repaired. In the background the landing gear trusses can be seen still attached to the backing, whist cutting this away i snapped off one of the legs and ended up having to buy another set. I didn't have any at the time, but since then i found some tiny saws that fit to standard scalpel blade handles are a really useful tool for working with this material
Work was started on the landing gear and it was here that i learnt a painful lesson. Shapeways fine detail plastic is extremely brittle and doesn't lend itself to be easily repaired. In the background the landing gear trusses can be seen still attached to the backing, whist cutting this away i snapped off one of the legs and ended up having to buy another set. I didn't have any at the time, but since then i found some tiny saws that fit to standard scalpel blade handles are a really useful tool for working with this material
In keeping with the rest of the model the landing gear was modified so that it is attached with screws rather than glued. This was particularly handy in this instance as the panel that the legs attached to was covered in foil and did not lend itself to gluing. I wanted to try and avoid having to cut away the foil to leave an area to exposed for gluing. The bottom legs were drilled and tapped with 1mm threads
In keeping with the rest of the model the landing gear was modified so that it is attached with screws rather than glued. This was particularly handy in this instance as the panel that the legs attached to was covered in foil and did not lend itself to gluing. I wanted to try and avoid having to cut away the foil to leave an area to exposed for gluing. The bottom legs were drilled and tapped with 1mm threads
The top legs had styrene washers with locating pegs glued to them. Superglue does not work very well with this printed material, 5 minute epoxy was used
The top legs had styrene washers with locating pegs glued to them. Superglue does not work very well with this printed material, 5 minute epoxy was used
The main struts were drilled at the top end to accept 1mm screws, and as you can see on the strut to the right there was next to no material left this left them very weak and a couple of them disintegrated when the kegs were bolted together. The strut on the left show the addition of a beefed up fixing point
The main struts were drilled at the top end to accept 1mm screws, and as you can see on the strut to the right there was next to no material left this left them very weak and a couple of them disintegrated when the kegs were bolted together. The strut on the left show the addition of a beefed up fixing point
The new fixing points were made from styrene sheet and rod. A hole was drilled down into the leg to accept the new part
The new fixing points were made from styrene sheet and rod. A hole was drilled down into the leg to accept the new part
The main legs as supplied, still attached to the printing supports. Seen as part of the print are wires that are wrapped around the leg. On the real thing they were electrical wires that took a signal from the landing probes mounted below the footpads up to the electrical systems above. This is where I have formed an opinion that sometimes 3D printing can have a slight negative. 3D printing can, and does produce stunning results and i am a great fan of it, but i think sometimes it can lead designers down the path of creating too much detail on one piece, rather that making the item of smaller pieces that can be assembled. Having a super detailed piece made in this way can make it harder to paint the different colours and get a crisp definition. When I looked at the legs with the wire moulded on my initial reaction was, wow what a nice touch, then however would i be able to paint them and make them look good
The main legs as supplied, still attached to the printing supports. Seen as part of the print are wires that are wrapped around the leg. On the real thing they were electrical wires that took a signal from the landing probes mounted below the footpads up to the electrical systems above. This is where I have formed an opinion that sometimes 3D printing can have a slight negative. 3D printing can, and does produce stunning results and i am a great fan of it, but i think sometimes it can lead designers down the path of creating too much detail on one piece, rather that making the item of smaller pieces that can be assembled. Having a super detailed piece made in this way can make it harder to paint the different colours and get a crisp definition. When I looked at the legs with the wire moulded on my initial reaction was, wow what a nice touch, then however would i be able to paint them and make them look good
David Weeks drawings were used as a guide, in conjunction with flight photographs
David Weeks drawings were used as a guide, in conjunction with flight photographs
An identifier was made to better visualise where things were in relation to each other. As with a lot of items i produce on the PC Microsoft excel was used
An identifier was made to better visualise where things were in relation to each other. As with a lot of items i produce on the PC Microsoft excel was used
From these references i made a set of set of images for each panel The number was used to identify each separate piece of covering, the letters were for the order in which they were to be applied, A first and so on.
From these references i made a set of set of images for each panel The number was used to identify each separate piece of covering, the letters were for the order in which they were to be applied, A first and so on.
A list was compiled of each separate piece that would be attached or painted with the location, a finish, a flight/construction photograph reference number, and a note to myself. I was also fortunate to enough to have some obscure photos sent to me from Jim Key of accurate models which were a great help. The list runs into a total of 71 locations, and all in all i would estimate that there are in the region of 400 pieces of tape/foil attached to the section.
A list was compiled of each separate piece that would be attached or painted with the location, a finish, a flight/construction photograph reference number, and a note to myself. I was also fortunate to enough to have some obscure photos sent to me from Jim Key of accurate models which were a great help. The list runs into a total of 71 locations, and all in all i would estimate that there are in the region of 400 pieces of tape/foil attached to the section.
The legs were assembled to check the fit. The part of the truss circled in red is a manufacturing support that needs to be removed. Vincent Meens mentions on his website to be careful when removing this, and having recently broke one of the other trusses I decided to add to temporary bolt in place supports that could stay there until the model was completed
The legs were assembled to check the fit. The part of the truss circled in red is a manufacturing support that needs to be removed. Vincent Meens mentions on his website to be careful when removing this, and having recently broke one of the other trusses I decided to add to temporary bolt in place supports that could stay there until the model was completed
This shot shows the legs in place. To remove them the four small screws in to top deck are released (two are visible either side of the cutout on the top face) the base is then removed giving access to the inside of the shell to get at the screws that hold the legs in place
This shot shows the legs in place. To remove them the four small screws in to top deck are released (two are visible either side of the cutout on the top face) the base is then removed giving access to the inside of the shell to get at the screws that hold the legs in place
The base is removed giving access to the inside of the shell
The base is removed giving access to the inside of the shell
Making the temporary braces
Making the temporary braces
Braces in place
Braces in place
The rectangular piece of styene doubles up as a screw holder for the tiny 1mm screws and as a backing washer
The rectangular piece of styene doubles up as a screw holder for the tiny 1mm screws and as a backing washer
Screws are installed
Screws are installed
Fortunately it is possible to buy Kapton tape that has adhesive backing. This is pretty similar, if not exactly what was used on the spacecraft
Fortunately it is possible to buy Kapton tape that has adhesive backing. This is pretty similar, if not exactly what was used on the spacecraft
The braces receiving the covering. In some instances i did not use the metallised paper bags, but substituted it with greaseproof paper (the type that is used for lining baking tins in cake making
The braces receiving the covering. In some instances i did not use the metallised paper bags, but substituted it with greaseproof paper (the type that is used for lining baking tins in cake making
Paper painted flat black and cut to shape, laid black face down with double sided tape. Cellophane attached, and Kapton edging applied
Paper painted flat black and cut to shape, laid black face down with double sided tape. Cellophane attached, and Kapton edging applied
The cuff was then wrapped around a pencil and secured with kapton tape
The cuff was then wrapped around a pencil and secured with kapton tape
Templates for the larger cuffs were made
Templates for the larger cuffs were made
The black sections were cut out
The black sections were cut out
Red Cellophane attached
Red Cellophane attached
Template for precutting curved section of Kapton
Template for precutting curved section of Kapton
Kapton edging applied. A hardened glass cutting board is used. This is ideal as the Kapton can be laid out on it cut and then removed and placed where needed without loosing any adhesive
Kapton edging applied. A hardened glass cutting board is used. This is ideal as the Kapton can be laid out on it cut and then removed and placed where needed without loosing any adhesive
four of the eight cuffs completed
four of the eight cuffs completed
The main trusses had the down legs covered, and the underlying gold foil wrapped around the top logs. The small prerolled cuffs slid into place and the legs attached to the shell
The main trusses had the down legs covered, and the underlying gold foil wrapped around the top logs. The small prerolled cuffs slid into place and the legs attached to the shell
Another shot
Another shot
The larger cuffs were then rolled around the strut secured with double sided tape
The larger cuffs were then rolled around the strut secured with double sided tape
A couple of shots of the real thing, was quite pleased at how the cuffs turned out
A couple of shots of the real thing, was quite pleased at how the cuffs turned out
The next items to be covered were the main struts. This was one of those jobs that looked like it would be straight forward but wasn't. Survival blanket was used, and after a lot of cutting, trimming a pattern was produced so that four identical pieces could be cut
The next items to be covered were the main struts. This was one of those jobs that looked like it would be straight forward but wasn't. Survival blanket was used, and after a lot of cutting, trimming a pattern was produced so that four identical pieces could be cut
The legs were wrapped in the blanket and strips of Kapton attached. The covering was secured with double sided tape
The legs were wrapped in the blanket and strips of Kapton attached. The covering was secured with double sided tape
The moulded in wire was sanded away prior to painting the leg. The wire used was from some NANO LED lights. Fortunately this looks exactly the same as the wire used on Spider, and appears good at the scale level
The moulded in wire was sanded away prior to painting the leg. The wire used was from some NANO LED lights. Fortunately this looks exactly the same as the wire used on Spider, and appears good at the scale level
Set of patterns used for the coverings on the landing gear bottom braces
Set of patterns used for the coverings on the landing gear bottom braces
Sections of survival blanket being cut out
Sections of survival blanket being cut out
The black sections were made from grease proof paper painted flat black
The black sections were made from grease proof paper painted flat black
The coverings were attached with double sided tape
The coverings were attached with double sided tape
The ubersidee covering with survival blanket
The ubersidee covering with survival blanket
Kapton tape strips applied
Kapton tape strips applied
A finished assembly. This was a very time consuming exercise, I guess i spent about 12 hours on each one, and there are 4 of them.
A finished assembly. This was a very time consuming exercise, I guess i spent about 12 hours on each one, and there are 4 of them.
All four done and dusted
All four done and dusted
Legs and main trusses ready to go
Legs and main trusses ready to go
There are some tiny uplock bars that needed attaching. As the panels where they sit are pre finished with foil there is no real way to attach them. The centre peg was removed and a 0.4mm hole drilled through the body
There are some tiny uplock bars that needed attaching. As the panels where they sit are pre finished with foil there is no real way to attach them. The centre peg was removed and a 0.4mm hole drilled through the body
0.7mm styrene rod was used to make new longer centre pegs. The rod was cut down to a taper to fit into the 0.4mm holes
0.7mm styrene rod was used to make new longer centre pegs. The rod was cut down to a taper to fit into the 0.4mm holes
The front porch came with small locating pegs on the bottom. These were extended to allow the porch to be a push fit into place at a later stage
The front porch came with small locating pegs on the bottom. These were extended to allow the porch to be a push fit into place at a later stage
With all the landing gear prefinished it was tome to assemble the stage. The four red panels are push fitted on.
With all the landing gear prefinished it was tome to assemble the stage. The four red panels are push fitted on.
The truss screwed into place. The uplock pushed into its locating hole
The truss screwed into place. The uplock pushed into its locating hole
All four trusses fitted. The heatshield is in the background ready to be secured
All four trusses fitted. The heatshield is in the background ready to be secured
An Nano led with the wire was used to simulate and umbilcal connection on the Y+ leg. The real thing is seen below
An Nano led with the wire was used to simulate and umbilcal connection on the Y+ leg. The real thing is seen below
The top deck thermal covering being prepared. Thick card was used and the blanket cut and the edges secured with double side tape.
The top deck thermal covering being prepared. Thick card was used and the blanket cut and the edges secured with double side tape.
The bottom heatshield section being covered. Thin styrene sheet, covered with survival blanket. The sizes for the pattern were calculated using an online program.
The bottom heatshield section being covered. Thin styrene sheet, covered with survival blanket. The sizes for the pattern were calculated using an online program.
The covered section
The covered section
Two pieces were used to fill the conical area
Two pieces were used to fill the conical area
The two sections in place. Reference photos of this area are few and far between for Apollo 9. Reading through mission reports show that there were a few problems with the heatshield on the previous unmanned mission, and also on the Apollo 9 mission leading to extra securing points and fasteners being added. There are good references for Apollo 11 and onwards, including displayed LM's
The two sections in place. Reference photos of this area are few and far between for Apollo 9. Reading through mission reports show that there were a few problems with the heatshield on the previous unmanned mission, and also on the Apollo 9 mission leading to extra securing points and fasteners being added. There are good references for Apollo 11 and onwards, including displayed LM's
The flat section of the heatshield was made from two pieces of styrene
The flat section of the heatshield was made from two pieces of styrene
Holes drilled in a pattern to simulate the fixings
Holes drilled in a pattern to simulate the fixings
the shield fitted against the descent stage and drilled through. Locating dowels were made from styrene rod. The two conical sections are held in place by the flat section
the shield fitted against the descent stage and drilled through. Locating dowels were made from styrene rod. The two conical sections are held in place by the flat section
The dowels were glued to the flat section, this was covered in Household tin foil, it was secured on the underside with double side tape
The dowels were glued to the flat section, this was covered in Household tin foil, it was secured on the underside with double side tape
The visble side was then burnished to reveal the holes. This was to simulate the fixings
The visble side was then burnished to reveal the holes. This was to simulate the fixings
Finished assembly
Finished assembly
The image on the far left was from LM1, the one to the left was LM-3 Spider (LM-2 never flew)
The image on the far left was from LM1, the one to the left was LM-3 Spider (LM-2 never flew)
The dowels were glued to the flat section, this was covered in Household tin foil, it was secured on the underside with double side tape
The dowels were glued to the flat section, this was covered in Household tin foil, it was secured on the underside with double side tape
The visble side was then burnished to reveal the holes. This was to simulate the fixings
The visble side was then burnished to reveal the holes. This was to simulate the fixings
Finished assembly
Finished assembly
The curved sections were created using thin styrene sheet. This was held against a glass container of the correct diameter with elastic bands. Then boiling water was poured over it about four times until it retained its shape when removed from the glass bottle
The curved sections were created using thin styrene sheet. This was held against a glass container of the correct diameter with elastic bands. Then boiling water was poured over it about four times until it retained its shape when removed from the glass bottle
the panels were then trial fitted to each location
the panels were then trial fitted to each location
Fortunately on the real LM there are landing gear uplock stops which look like small rods protruding from the four longer sides. These were used to locate the panels
Fortunately on the real LM there are landing gear uplock stops which look like small rods protruding from the four longer sides. These were used to locate the panels
Each panel was then covered. There was a fortunate coincidence that my son had his third birthday around about this time and we had a big helium filled mylar balloon for his party. This turned out to be an ideal susbstitue for survival blanket. It is a bit thicker, easier to work with.
Each panel was then covered. There was a fortunate coincidence that my son had his third birthday around about this time and we had a big helium filled mylar balloon for his party. This turned out to be an ideal susbstitue for survival blanket. It is a bit thicker, easier to work with.
The longer panels were applied first, with excess material on them overlapping the adjacent panels. When all these were in place the rear heatshield flat section is pushed into place
The longer panels were applied first, with excess material on them overlapping the adjacent panels. When all these were in place the rear heatshield flat section is pushed into place
Kapton tape then applied to the seams
Kapton tape then applied to the seams
A shot of the finished area. This is one of the areas of the model that i am verry happy with the result
A shot of the finished area. This is one of the areas of the model that i am verry happy with the result
The top deck finished with coverings. This is another area where there are no concrete references.
The top deck finished with coverings. This is another area where there are no concrete references.
The two golden areas were created using candy land crafts foil that i covered with frisket (A thin see through adhesive backed film)
The two golden areas were created using candy land crafts foil that i covered with frisket (A thin see through adhesive backed film)
This was taped to a thick card backing
This was taped to a thick card backing
Then taped to the stage
Then taped to the stage
The black sections were made from the metallised food pouch
The black sections were made from the metallised food pouch
Here is the panel cut and attached to a card backing
Here is the panel cut and attached to a card backing
Adding more of the covering, a very long winded affair
Adding more of the covering, a very long winded affair
Edhing for the panels being precut
Edhing for the panels being precut
Finished panel in place
Finished panel in place
Covering of the helium tank
Covering of the helium tank
More panel work
More panel work
And yes you guessed it more black panelling
And yes you guessed it more black panelling
Patterns were made for each panel prior to them being cut from the painted sheet and
Patterns were made for each panel prior to them being cut from the painted sheet and
A pattern
A pattern
Small panel being edged with Kapton
Small panel being edged with Kapton
Reference photo of the real deal
Reference photo of the real deal
Edging applied to panels
Edging applied to panels
Nearly finished atrticle
Nearly finished atrticle
Small pieces of Kapton applied to simulate the real panels that looked loke patchwork quilts in places
Small pieces of Kapton applied to simulate the real panels that looked loke patchwork quilts in places
A random shot of my work bench in a saner moment when it was tidy
A random shot of my work bench in a saner moment when it was tidy
With all the panels applied the bottom trusses were glued into place with epoxy
With all the panels applied the bottom trusses were glued into place with epoxy
All four legs in place
All four legs in place
The stage is complete as far as the coatings are concerned, with some reference photos to the right for comparison.
The stage is complete as far as the coatings are concerned, with some reference photos to the right for comparison.
The Egress porch was started next, this is the small platform just out side the hatch. When the astronauts exit the module they use this as a platform prior to getting on the ladder to climb down to the Lunar surface. In the case of Apollo 9 a foot restraint was added so that Rusty Schweickart could secure himself in place whilst conducting his activities
The Egress porch was started next, this is the small platform just out side the hatch. When the astronauts exit the module they use this as a platform prior to getting on the ladder to climb down to the Lunar surface. In the case of Apollo 9 a foot restraint was added so that Rusty Schweickart could secure himself in place whilst conducting his activities
The whole item painted with a mix of paints with an airbrush. The darker indentations were hand painted. They looked awful so i stripped the paint back off and started with plan B. This was to remove the lower sections, paint the frame that remained and glue a prepainted base on the bottom
The whole item painted with a mix of paints with an airbrush. The darker indentations were hand painted. They looked awful so i stripped the paint back off and started with plan B. This was to remove the lower sections, paint the frame that remained and glue a prepainted base on the bottom
A photo of the real item
A photo of the real item
Work in progress, the material was removed from most of the area, the only sections i could not remove were to the right here as there was the mounting block below. So the fhose four indents had snall pieces cut thatr were then to be inserted latre
Work in progress, the material was removed from most of the area, the only sections i could not remove were to the right here as there was the mounting block below. So the fhose four indents had snall pieces cut thatr were then to be inserted latre
All parts prefitted
All parts prefitted
All ready for painting
All ready for painting
All assembled
All assembled
A view from the top
A view from the top
A clear wash of "gunsmoke" applied to tone the colours down. The small handrails were reattached
A clear wash of "gunsmoke" applied to tone the colours down. The small handrails were reattached
Placed on the stage
Placed on the stage
A trial application of decals was made onto a spare panel. This was done to ensure they were opaque enough that the base colour did not show through. Many thanks to Jim Key of Accurate Models who supplied the SVG for these
A trial application of decals was made onto a spare panel. This was done to ensure they were opaque enough that the base colour did not show through. Many thanks to Jim Key of Accurate Models who supplied the SVG for these
The real thing
The real thing
Decals applied
Decals applied
Landing radar and blast deflector painted
Landing radar and blast deflector painted
Bare Metal foil applied
Bare Metal foil applied
Landing pads and probes painted
Landing pads and probes painted
A seem,ingly never ending amount of small deatail items to be prepared and painted
A seem,ingly never ending amount of small deatail items to be prepared and painted
Foil for the footpads
Foil for the footpads
Finished foil application, seen from the underside
Finished foil application, seen from the underside
Finished foil application, seen from the topside
Finished foil application, seen from the topside
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